Personality. Rachel Comey AW20

Rachel Comey might be called a New York fashion week veteran, and simultaneously she’s one of the coolest, off-the-radar designers showing here. Returning to her tradition of hosting a dinner-show, Comey used her slot to signal boost the cause of women’s rights. Between courses, Comey loaned the mic to Lourdes Rivera of the Center for Reproductive Rights, which will be at the Supreme Court on March 4 as the justices hear a case on restrictions to abortion access in Louisiana; and writer Aminatou Sow, who spoke about the political power of friendship. The Comey models came across as a distinctly empowered in their oversized tweed coats, slick leather knee-length shorts, impeccably slouched trousers and tops and jackets with ballooning sleeves. The range of sturdy textures here gave the outing its sense of earthy toughness; a burst of florals, insertions of sorbet pinks into the palette, and playful elements like metallic fringe made the line-up even more appealing. This was a collection heavily indebted to menswear, but the accent was always on the feminine. In the end, it’s not the clothes, but the person wearing them. Comey’s garments are here to be elevated by the wearer’s personality.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

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