Author: Design & Culture by Ed
Hi-Tech Magic. Maison Margiela Haute Couture SS18

“When I returned to designing, I was taken aback by how everyone was seeing shows through their phones,” John Galliano confessed to the press after the spring-summer 2018 couture show for Maison Margiela. If you can’t beat ’em, join ’em? Well, you can say that Galliano found a compromise for his initial frustration with the Insta-phenomen. A very, very innovative one. The audience members were asked to turn their cameras to flash throughout the show, which resulted in a totally unexpected experience. Everyone captured their own images of fabrics of the high-tech garments as the models walked down the runway. “It’s quite scientific,” Galliano continued. “We recorded every moment of what we were making, then looked at the photographs and altered what we were doing according to the photos.” The reaction of polyurethane to camera flash works magic on holographic material that was layered over polka dots and artisanal chinoiserie jacquards. In other words, what you see IRL, looks (and shines) differently, when you compare it to digital shot of the same piece. Fashion, for goodness sake, is a dream! And Galliano knows that. If your pocket isn’t filled with a haute couture budget, it’s just the matter of time when the hi-tech concept hits Maison Margiela’s regular ready-to-wear.






Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Elegance. Givenchy Haute Couture SS18

Sublime. Unpretentious. Elegant. Those were the first words that dropped in my mind while watching Clare Waight Keller‘s debut haute couture show for Givenchy. Back in October, I was on fence with her first ready-to-wear collection for the house – it felt like lacking any direction, taking clues from Hedi Slimane’s Saint Laurent era. But with this simply beautiful couture outing, I’m quite sure that Clare is finding her path at Givenchy. Moving away from her boho Chloé days for good, the designer gracefully revisited Hubert de Givenchy’s archives and delivered a line up of masterfully cut eveningwear. Forget futile venues; focus on the garments. She studied “the structure and graphism Hubert had in his work at the beginning.” And then, she indulged herself fully in it and got on with working with the atelier team in “the complete freedom couture offers.” From all-black looks to very fine-looking latex creations, I think there won’t be much of a problem with selection of the looks for the red carpet goers (think Cate Blanchett, Rooney Mara). I really hope to see that orange feather bomb in action, as well.








Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
Handcraft Glamour. Proenza Schouler AW18

Skipping New York fashion week for the Paris couture season works for the Proenza Schouler boys. That’s perceivable – their second collection in the French capital is a bomb. Reflecting on who their woman is, and what are the PS codes, Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough combined globe-trotter craftsmanship with contemporary glamour for the label’s autumn-winter 2018. “We took it back to California, to handcraft, women’s lib,” Lazaro said backstage. “But we were thinking about this voyager, picking things up as she goes along. A voyager across borders.” Whether she’s wearing a crotchet, midi-dress in bold red, a handful of bracelets or one of these shearling coats, that woman certainly travels in style. The mood of the collection was comfortably relaxed – the bags are bigger this season, the knits feel clingier, while the multi-colour tie-dye looks give a laid-back, surfer-girl attitude. Fringing and velvet were here too, as well as big, eclectic necklaces that looked like treasures brought back home from remote destinations.








Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

