Cristobal Balenciaga’s couture in today’s world – that’s what Demna Gvasalia‘s thought about for this season. His third, womenswear show for Balenciaga was the most literal nod towards the maison’s founder up to date, as it ended with voluminous, ball gowns. But they wouldn’t be Demna, if they weren’t at the proper level of peculiarity. One of them was a walking pile of feathers, styled with a bazaar bag (also covered in feathers, from the bottom to the top). Those colossal bags, instead of conventional clutches, were another clue that Gvasalia isn’t going straight haute couture path.

If talking of more wearable pieces, the Georgian designer went for something sensually chic – and this time, it was intriguingly elegant, no jokes. Femme fatale pencil skirts (made of haute car mats), over-sized sweaters, over-the-knee boots (last season’s spandex obsession continues) – it was sexy and eerie simultaneously. Although Demna has established his Balenciaga classics – the bags, duvet jackets, killer hills – and might already rest on his laurels, he thrives to develop a continuous language at the brand, every time with a new twist and new perspective.