Bourdin and Americana. Nina Ricci AW17

March 14, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

In Milan, we’ve got Jil Sander, where Rodolfo Paglialunga was trying, trying and finally successed in capturing the spirit of a label (unfortunately slightly too late, as he is said to be leaving the house) originally created by a woman with vision. Meanwhile in Paris, a similar situation was going on with Nina Ricci, where Guillaume Henry took his time to understand the brand’s rhythm and the founder’s codes. But autumn-winter 2017 is the clear evidence that he’s the right person behind Ricci, with fresh concepts and remarkable respect for the maison‘s aesthetic. His latest collection is brilliant, in every aspect. The make-up and pastel colour palette instantly reminded you of Guy Bourdin’s iconic Polaroids and visionary visuals. The clothes were femininely chic, but at the same time Wild West with all those over-sized belt buckles and flesh-exposing silhouettes. If you aren’t fully happy about the subtle nod to rodeo, Henry once again showed that he really can cut a great coat. And there’s a wide range to choose from.

Nina Ricci

What’s Hot (14.3.17)

Image | March 14, 2017March 6, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

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Body. Comme Des Garçons AW17

March 13, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

First thoughts after seeing Rei Kawakubo‘s Comme Des Garçons collection for autumn-winter 2017 (written chronologically). Post-apocalyptic vision of Nicki Minaj’s / Kim Kardashian’ bodies. A Kawakubo human changes into an over-sized mushroom. Recycling is not only ecological; it’s artistic.

Rei’s collection is the new radical. Anti-fashion. Intepret it the way you want. But don’t think of it in terms of ‘clothes’, because these garments can’t be classified that way.

Elegance. Haider Ackermann AW17

March 13, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

With a critically acclaimed debut collection for Berluti, Haider Ackermann‘s autumn-winter 2017 collection was a nothing to add, nothing to take away line-up. Although the designer seems to distance himself from earlier love for spontenous draping around the body, his new collection is as intriguing as usual. And it was all about black (with hints of dark blue and white). From leather slim-fit pants and knee-lenght boots to fur inserts and desirable coats, Ackermann decided to show his affection for daily essentials in the most poetic colour of all. Don’t expect something new this time around. Instead, appreciate Haider’s wearable, dark elegance.