Orient. Christian Wijnants AW17

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In his autumn-winter 2017 fashion show, Christian Wijnants celebrated the idea of a world with no borders. Not being too referential about the orient, he and his in-house studio developed one-of-a-kind prints which had a lot to do with traditional paisley and Persian rugs patterns. A brilliant remix of oriental rhythms and booming beats were another clue of the designer’s inspiration. However, the styling of those flowing maxi-dresses and skirts was purely European. In bold colours of orange, green and purple, the Belgian designer focused on the technical side of his clothes: the pleats were made of polyamide to keep the silhouette, while the sweaters were of highest quality Alpaca and other yarns to satisfy a Wijnants client for years. At the Le Marais showroom, to see and touch the clothes, I’ve spotted that the python boots in yellow were the star among the buyers. No wonder why.

Backstage / showroom photos by Edward Kanarecki.

Ceremonial. Rick Owens AW17

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Rick Owens doesn’t care, if you’re laughing at his autumn-winter 2017 abstract headpieces or distorted proportions. Although his collection looked somewhat dystopian, the designer said it was rather ceremonial – and ceremonies are important, whether we’re speaking of rituals or deeply-rooted tradition. “People are coming together to collectively pursue common goals and ideas.” Today, a fashion show might be lightly called a ceremony, too, as people coalesce and celebrate their ambitions and aspirations. But not only the headgear made the viewer gasp with confusion during Rick’s show. The collection’s eerieness has no end, just like the amount of elongated sleeves and duvet covers. It’s about wrapping, draping, layering, things that Owens does religiously, following it every season.

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Melancholy. Ann Demeulemeester AW17

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This is a very romantic girl who mixes all her lace and old garments,” said Sébastien Meunier backstage. “She wants to go and party, but in a different mood.” If melancholic attitude in fashion really exists, then Ann Demeulemeester autumn-winter 2017 collection precisely defines it. Feather inserts and intricately embellished, lace straps; long and flowing dresses styled with veils and leather pants. Very Ann. Meunier is getting better and better with every season, respecting Demeulemeester’s codes and injecting his own, dark aesthetic.

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