Tiffany (Not) T. Vaquera AW17

February 15, 2017February 15, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Patric DiCaprio, David Moses, Bryn Taubensee and Claire Sully are the New York-based designers behind Vaquera – an arty, DIY label from the downtown. Brands like Vaquera are the reason why New York Fashion Week is worth it – even though most brands do t-shirts with their logos, some of those hardly commercial labels become food for brain. In case of autumn-winter 2017, Vaquera was about dreams and aspirations of America. Chronic yearning for a Tiffany & Co piece among girls was reflected in a “dress” – which, in fact, was an over-sized version of a Tiffany blue pouch with Vaquera & Co written over it (of course in a matching font!). The flag of USA was recut and reshaped to perfectly fit a gown with a few metres long train. Although some of the show’s elements felt quite unclear, like the restaurant’s chef hat (“Why does everybody want to be a chef?” as the show note stated), Vaquera is a brand which subverts reality. Confusion is welcome.

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Image | February 15, 2017February 4, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Joyous. Diane Von Furstenberg AW17

February 14, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

American women praise Diane Von Furstenberg‘s fashion legacy for her iconic ‘wrap-dress’ – even Carrie Bradshaw used to wear Diane’s timeless design in one of Sex and The City episodes. But honestly, the brand itself didn’t spark much interest throughout the last years and DVF reacted just in time, by appointing Jonathan Saunders as the new creative director last year. That was the right choice, and the designer’s second season at the brand is a clear evidence for that. And it’s not only because of affordable price point for a truly flattering dress. Saunders makes Von Furstenberg a brand you want to observe and LOVE again. Surely, it’s because of his experience with textiles, which he gained at his own, now-closed label back in London. For autumn-winter 2017, Saunders offers the brand’s clients maxi- and midi- silhouettes of V-neck dresses in abstract, retro patterns. Sweet-like-candy fur jackets and fancy, geometric skirts will sell-out in a minute. Oh, and the colours – so addicting, so joyous. It’s good to see Jonathan back in action!

Lady Romance. Altuzarra AW17

February 14, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Joseph Altuzarra took a totally different path this season, leaving behind cherry sweetness of last summer. Looking at his autumn-winter 2017 collection, ‘heavy’ is the term that matches best, but not in the negative meaning of this word. In fact, everything was ‘heavy’ about the collection, from the atmosphere to the clothes. Delightful velvets in dark colour palette (except a few yellow ensembles); knee-length, lace-up boots; fur coats and jackets; richness of embroideries and embellishments. The styling of these preciously-looking clothes was made-to-measure for a woman, who loves Altuzarra‘s fashion – she’s both, romantic and sophisticated. As the designer said, his main aim was to build a dialogue between the past and today. However, the past felt more dominant in this conversation. Renaissance motifs were the main inspiration, for a reason.