Ghesquièrenaissance. Louis Vuitton SS27

October 7, 2026 | Design & Culture by Ed

It’s weirdly fascinating to see Nicolas Ghesquière return to minimalism – even if its lines are distinctly Belle Époque. His Louis Vuitton collection, closing Paris Fashion Week, ended up being one of my favorites of the season. The way he juxtaposed a very, very simple-looking camel-hued biker jacket with not-quite-slip dresses, or played with the breeziness of couture windbreakers, somehow made it all feel like a convincing wardrobe for today. It made me think warmly of his golden Balenciaga days. “Ergonomic” is the word that comes to mind, as well as “the impression of minimalism” – something Ghesquière has always been particularly good at playing with in the past. It’s very exciting to see the designer return with a line-up so urgent yet also light, which is always the most difficult thing to achieve. (Jonathan Anderson, for instance, failed to deliver that lightness at Dior this season.) Ghesquièrenaissance is upon us.

Method. Chanel SS27

October 6, 2026 | Design & Culture by Ed

Matthieu Blazy is closing out his first year at Chanel. Yet somehow, it already feels as though he’s been there forever. He has established a method – one he follows with remarkable consistency. The mature models cast in his Chanel shows are crucial to making it convincing: they bring nobility to his dropped waists and rounded shoulders, a sense of advanced style rather than trendiness. The clothes feel lived-in before they have even been worn. READ MY FULL REVIEW HERE.

All collages by Edward Kanarecki.

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Pulpy. Dries Van Noten SS27

October 5, 2026 | Design & Culture by Ed

I know everybody loved Julian Klausner’s latest effort at Dries Van Noten, but I’m not entirely sold on it. On paper, it looks solid. But on second glance, its pulpiness starts to feel dangerously Prada-ish, or even Marni-ish – specifically the Consuelo Castiglioni era, with a few tinges of Francesco Risso thrown in.

Klausner can’t be a forever A+ student of Papa Dries’s school, and he’s very welcome to step outside that particular comfort zone – one that Dries Van Noten clients clearly adore and can’t seem to get enough of. But somehow, the spring-summer 2027 lady-like turn towards the 1950s didn’t quite click for me. Neither did the extremely layered styling, which often concealed the actual clothes rather than allowing them to speak for themselves.

There’s nothing wrong with Klausner wanting to move on. In fact, he probably should. I’m just not sure this particular detour has found its destination yet.

ED’s SELECTION:

Dries Van Noten Belted Pleated Linen-blend Jacquard Skirt

Dries Van Noten Ripa Giant Egg Printed Satin Coat

Dries Van Noten Ruched Satin Mules

Dries Van Noten Mélange Grain De Poudre Blouse

Dries Van Noten Printed Twill Scarf

All collages by Edward Kanarecki.

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So Bad It’s Great. Valentino SS27

October 5, 2026 | Design & Culture by Ed

At first, I found Alessandro Michele’s latest Valentino collection so obnoxiously tacky that I was close to completely dismissing it. But then I went back to it. And again. And again. And I still can’t stop looking. I realised that, with all its va-va-voom, Michele is ferociously fighting the current status quo of fashion: the safer, the better. We are so indoctrinated with ideas of “good taste” that his collection feels like a much-needed danger – a slap on the wrist that shakes you up. The colours are gloriously pop and motley, the silhouettes delightfully old-school, and there’s something very, very enchanting about how profoundly un-modern this collection looks. In a fashion landscape obsessed with restraint, Michele is making a case for excess, awkwardness and sheer visual pleasure. It’s so bad, it’s great.

ED’s SELECTION:

Valentino Garavani Bow-detailed Gathered Satin-trimmed Wool-crepe Jacket

Valentino Garavani Printed Lace-trimmed Cotton T-shirt

Valentino Garavani Bowow 45 Bow-embellished Velvet Pumps

Valentino. A Grand Italian Epic by Taschen

Valentino Garavani Gold-tone, Crystal, Faux Pearl And Resin Earrings

Valentino Garavani Embellished Satin-trimmed Cropped Cotton-blend Velvet Peplum Top

All collages by Edward Kanarecki.

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School. Miu Miu SS27

October 4, 2026 | Design & Culture by Ed

A year ago, Miuccia Prada sent aprons down the Miu Miu runway – blue, floral, not unlike the ones worn by Bożena at my favourite greengrocer. As usual with Prada, her fascination with the supposedly mundane first caused confusion, then collective obsession. The apron became less a fashion statement than a political one. For spring-summer 2027, Prada takes us somewhere else entirely: from the market to the schoolyard. More specifically, the gym. READ MY FULL REVIEW HERE.