Villain Teen. Valentino Resort 2027

June 18, 2026 | Design & Culture by Ed

Valentino and teen-inspired coolness aren’t exactly two concepts you’d expect to find in the same sentence, but Alessandro Michele somehow makes the combination feel entirely natural. The designer has long been fond of punctuating his own eclectic wardrobe with a slogan cap – often sourced from Idea Ltd – and for resort 2027, he decided to bring the trick to Valentino.

The result? His “Villain Teen” caps look surprisingly chic paired with heavily embroidered jackets worn over ripped jeans, floor-sweeping retro dresses, heirloom furs, and all the glorious shoulder-padded excess of 1980s glamorama. You can easily imagine the Valentino girl and boy spending their parents’ money on antiques at Paul Bert Serpette, draped in their grandmother’s jewels, wrapped in bourgeois silk scarves, and indulging in a touch of aristocratic cosplay.

These are modern-day villains, but the kind who know how to have fun. The cap is the crucial ingredient: it stops everything from feeling like costume and makes it read as genuine personal style. Michele has been gradually loosening Valentino’s collar with each outing, and this feels like the most convincing expression of that approach yet. It’s a direction he should continue to pursue.

ED’s SELECTION:

Valentino Garavani Striped Metallic Knitted Poncho

Valentino Garavani Bow-embellished Ruched Wool Jacket

Valentino Garavani Vlogo Signature Mini Bow-detailed Velvet Shoulder Bag

Valentino Garavani Bowow 45 Bow-embellished Leather Pumps

Valentino Garavani Panthea Small Patchwork Leather And Suede Shoulder Bag

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Legacy. JW Anderson SS27

June 18, 2026 | Design & Culture by Ed

JW Anderson opens the spring-summer 2027 season with a cast brimming with character and charisma – while keeping the clothes firmly in familiar territory. More than a year ago, Jonathan Anderson very deliberately repositioned his London-based namesake label, a move that made perfect sense once his biggest job shifted to Paris at Dior. Gone are the runway spectacles; in their place come carefully crafted lookbooks starring friends of the brand, dressed in the signatures you can find year-round in JW Anderson’s meticulously curated boutiques. Craft – unmistakably British craft – remains the central pillar. At this rate, the label could soon become the new Barbour or even Burberry, albeit with a sharper sense of humor and considerably cooler company. In other words: the next great British brand. Donegal wool knits bloom with wildflowers and ferns, while the house’s signature knitwear references the image of a traditional Irish cottage. The ever-present squirrel motif traces its origins to a Scottish Fair Isle pattern from Sanquhar, and a striking red coat with a matching scarf emerges from a collaboration with Johnstons of Elgin (arguably the source of the finest cashmere in the world – sorry, Italians!). Throughout the collection, Anderson playfully weaves together folk textiles, domestic objects, and rural craftsmanship, recontextualising them through a joyful cast that includes Dree Hemingway, Isaac Cole Powell, Camille B. Waddington, Sophie Okonedo, and more than a touch of flamboyant mischief.

ED’s SELECTION:

JW Anderson Layered Wool And Cashmere-blend Cardigan

JW Anderson Cauliflower Crocheted Cotton Bag Charm

JW Anderson Shearling-lined Suede Ankle Boots

JW Anderson Wool-twill Blazer

JW Anderson Tie-detailed Crinkled-silk Midi Dress

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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What’s Going On? Balenciaga Resort 2027

June 13, 2026 | Design & Culture by Ed

Balenciaga has released its resort 2027 lookbook. It’s Pierpaolo Piccioli’s strongest work for the house so far – which doesn’t necessarily mean it’s good. Maybe he’s getting there. But I still think he needs to decide what exactly he wants his Balenciaga to be, because at this point, I’m still clueless.

The collection spans more than 80 looks, photographed inside Cristóbal Balenciaga’s couture salon. The space itself carries enormous symbolic weight, especially considering it was Demna who restored, reclaimed, and reactivated it not a while ago. Using it this early in Piccioli’s tenure feels almost too obvious. Rather than communicating a convincing new chapter, the setting keeps pulling the conversation back to the previous one. Visually, it feels less like a fresh beginning and more like reheated nachos. READ MY FULL REVIEW HERE.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Carnal Allure. Tom Ford Pre-Fall 2026

June 5, 2026 | Design & Culture by Ed

Haider Ackermann’s Tom Ford feels like a wet dream made flesh: Lisa Lyon working out to Madonna’s “Erotica“, or Helmut Berger cast in an art-house adult film. The energy is relentlessly otherworldly- steamy, regally refined, and dangerously seductive. His pre-fall 2026 collection delivers exactly that.

What’s particularly striking is how powerful Ackermann’s clothes remain outside the spectacle of the runway. Even against the plain backdrop of a lookbook, they hold your gaze, effortlessly hypnotic. As the collection arrives in stores, there’s plenty to obsess over: razor-sharp tailoring, deliciously kinky leather pieces for both men and women, languid floor-skimming gowns, and outerwear so impeccable it borders on fetishistic. Classic Daddy Haider.

We saw Ackermann explore denim in the main collection, but here he pushes it further, giving the lineup a raunchier, more casual edge. It evokes the mood of Tom Ford’s Santa Fe ranch (think that unforgettable Terry Richardson editorial for Vogue Paris where they kiss). The result is a collection that feels both louche and luxurious, gritty and sensual… this is carnal allure.

ED’s SELECTION:

TOM FORD Iggy Oval-frame Acetate Sunglasses

TOM FORD Cotton And Silk-blend Duchesse-satin Blazer

TOM FORD Striped Silk-satin Jacquard Shirt

TOM FORD Leather Chelsea Boots

TOM FORD Double-breasted Cashmere-blend Blazer

TOM FORD Cotton And Silk-blend Duchesse Satin Straight-leg Pants

TOM FORD Croc-effect Patent-leather Cuff

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Future Vintage. Tory Burch Resort 2027

June 4, 2026 | Design & Culture by Ed

Tory Burch‘s woman belongs to a distinctly New York species: one part Joel Meyerowitz photograph, one part Substack phenomenon. She’s a fabulously eccentric Big Apple fixture who looks to Amy Fine Collins and Leandra Medine for contemporary inspiration, while keeping one eye firmly on Claire McCardell and the generation of 1940s womenswear designers who helped define the language of American style.

That blend of wit, intelligence, and easy elegance runs throughout Burch’s resort 2027 collection. The clothes are full of charming surprises, from a wallpaper-print raincoat to a beautiful dress with a faux-dickey neckline that makes it look as though a beloved sleeveless T-shirt has been casually slipped underneath. The styling never feels forced; rather, it captures the kind of woman who gets dressed for her own amusement first and everyone else’s admiration second.

And that cropped brown animal-print jacket? Future vintage, without question.