Daily Delights. Rosie Assoulin AW18

February 14, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

While for the past seasons, Rosie Assoulin earned a reputation of New York’s best place to shop for unpretentious eveningwear, the designer focused a bit more on daywear this time. And especially, outerwear, which is just a delight.The marble print – Rosie’s current obsession fuelled by a newly found book on marbling techniques – looked equally great on the reversible jackets, as on the pants in scarf-like silk. Tailoring is also a brand new area for Assoulin, but she manages to pull it off in a distinctly bold way (see the blue suit!). Flares are back, stronger than ever. But this wouldn’t be a Rosie Assoulin collection, if there were no dresses. From more day-to-day options to red-carpet spotlight stealers (that sculptural, micro-pleated gown), it’s impossible not to be mesmerised. Or even, enchanted!

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Refined Serenity. The Row AW18

February 14, 2018February 14, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

Who would have ever, ever thought that Mary Kate and Ashley Olsen will come so far to become the Jil Sander, Helmut Lang and Margiela-at-Hermes of today? Since Phoebe Philo is no longer at Céline, it can be safely said that The Row automatically becomes the official successor label for minimalism (and pure luxury) lovers. I’m writing that ecstatically: the autumn-winter 2018 is undoubtedly the best collection the twins have delivered up to date. Just look at the refined outerwear and khaki raincoats; the delightful, ecru gown with a highlighted waist; masculine blazers – actually, to die for – and knits made of the best possible cashmere (to be worn over and over for ages). Oh, and I nearly forgot to mention, that a selection of rare Isamu Noguchi sculptures were there during the runway show, standing and observing the serene walk of such women as Karen Elson, Ajak Deng or Yasmin Warsame. Although New York fashion week is still on, I think the Olsen’s have. Ultimately. Won. My. Heart.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

De Luxe. Area AW18

February 13, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

For a few seasons, Piotrek Panszczyk and Beckett Fogg‘s collections were New York fashion week’s escape to a cosmic-glam odyssey. With that niche, in fact, Area became a local trend-setter, that gets quickly copied by not only the up-and-coming labels, but the big players. This season, the designers took a more down-to-earth approach, but that doesn’t mean the collection was less disctinct to the brand’s identity. With more go-to pieces in offer, like adorably ruffled blazers or striped knits, Area smartly aims at the retailers. But the ‘she’s so fetch’ attitude is present, as usual – just note the leopard spots print, patchworked on a coat or used for slim pants. Crystal trimmings on the dresses and skirts are dramatically chic, wherever you are. Faux-fur appeared in all the fun places as well, while the intriguingly shaped hats brought a de luxe cowboy feel (think Madonna in Music video-clip). Some say that New York is short of young talent. Well, look at Area and better reconsider what you’ve said.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Lucid. Sies Marjan AW18

February 12, 2018February 12, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

While for the last few seasons I didn’t really understand Sander Lak‘s phenomenon, his autumn-winter 2018 collection looks, well, really good to me. Since the start of his eponymous label, Sies Marjan, Lak indulged himself in pastels mostly. “Last season was light, a dreamy state. This is still a dream but an intense one. Not a nightmare, not a happy dream, not a wet dream.” Then, a lucid dream! This time around, it’s more about psychedelic ombré of iris purple, crimson red, deep blue and forest green. Colour has always been his soft spot, and the collection shows how good the designer is in mixing and crushing the most unlikely palettes. From gowns draped with taffeta and cute shearling jackets to slouchy suits and relaxed pajama shirts, it’s like a delightful, yet demanding, spectrum of must-haves. If Sander’s latest collection had its colour palette’s name, I would definitely call it the ‘sweet melancholia’.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Big. Victoria Beckham AW18

February 12, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

Yesterday’s Victoria Beckham show was special – it didn’t only celebrate the label’s 10th annversary, but as well it was the last show presented in New York (the designer is switching for London, where her fam is. And Spice Girls, of course!). What you’ve seen 10 years ago in a Beckhamcollection, and what you see now, is diametrically, even dramatically, different. No more body-con, cocktail dresses and killer stilettos. Quite the opposite – loosely fit maxi-dresses, luxe hoodies and masculine coats. But what I appreciated the most in her autumn-winter 2018 collection were the felt bags – so big! Especially, the lilac one stole my heart. Really, you can carry anything in it, from let’s say kittens (as the collage above presents) to an entire, additional outfit for change. Beckham, since her radical change in fashion aesthetics, must adore Phoebe Philo – I think it’s not hard to notice some very distinct Célinisms here. But since Philo left Céline, where will ‘those’ women shop next autumn? Well, Victoria might have the answer.