Art Dealer Fashion. Olympia Le-Tan AW16

19-olympia-le-tan-fall-2016-rtw

In Paris’ hottest contemporary art gallery, Galerie Perrotin, Olympia Le-Tan staged her arty and extremely French presentation for autumn-winter 2016 season. The location was the right fit for her Parisian-chic embodying clothes and bags, with her dad’s Murakami, Erró, and Sophie Calle illustrated intepretations. The pastel-pink, vichy prints worked well with the olive-green coats, while the adorable, sequinned mini dress with Damien Hirst-like polka-dots is my personal favourite – I mean, it’s a go-to choice for an art exhibition! Looking at Olympia’s models, who have helped her to envision an art auction scenario (with Sabine Getty as a posh art buyer, Le-Tan’s sister, Cleo, as a secretarial assistant and Lily Summer as an eccentric girl), the whole event / fashion show felt absolutely entertaining, and humorous. And the Christian Louboutin lace-up stilettoes, splashed with paint the other day by Katie Hillier, were pure FUN.

13-olympia-le-tan-fall-2016-rtw

Slide3

06-olympia-le-tan-fall-2016-rtw

17-olympia-le-tan-fall-2016-rtw

05-olympia-le-tan-fall-2016-rtw

14-olympia-le-tan-fall-2016-rtw

11-olympia-le-tan-fall-2016-rtw

Spiritual Unisex. Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood AW16

tumblr_o3l6rw8sk71rf43pdo1_1280

Vivienne Westwood opens a new chapter in her fashion – and it’s called Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood. But who is Andreas? No, he isn’t a one-season-only collaborator. He’s Viveinne’s life-partner and her right hand in designing collections, and after many years of their creative reciprocation, Westwood decided to sign her main line’s collections with her love’s surname, too. How romantic. Just as romantic, as the beautiful, deep shade of red on toga-style draping and monkish pants from the autumn-winter 2016 season! Although the collection’s name, Sexercize, might be associated with the British dame’s past (SEX boutique in the heart of London, Kate Moss in boudoir corsets), it was rather about spirituality and gender fluidity. Both women and men wore platform boots, and the oriental manskirts made a cut. Just like the tiny, brass “penis” necklaces (by coincidence, we are heaving a little sex talk with Viv and Comme des Garçons today…), styled with masculine suits or feminine, lamé dresses. The collection, coming from Westwood’s and Kronthaler’s hearts, is full of styling tips, and as the Vivienne stated, “it’s really incredible – look at the amount of innovation!”

Cheers to these two lovebirds!

_ARC1304

Slide8

Slide7

_ARC0671

Slide6

Slide5

Slide2-kopia

Erotic Decadence. Comme des Garçons AW16

_CDG0459

“18th century punk” is how Rei Kawakubo, the 73-year old designer behind Comme des Garçons entitled her autumn-winter 2016. But don’t expect opulent ball-dresses with tomahawks (although Julien D’Ys, Rei’s long-time collaborator, created those grandiose hair constructions for this occasion)  – this collection pushed all the possible concepts of both, the past of historical costumes and punk. And, it was really all about sex and fantasies, with gigantic tongues, and – well, let your naughty imagination work it out – layered garments with “balls”, rendered in Lyon’s finest (and most expensive) tapestry. The closing look worn by Anna Cleveland, so the pastel-pink, leather piece with exaggerated, ruffled sleeves was a defiant reconstruction of Marie Antoinette’s coat, in which she would surely have a cupcake, or two. It subtly exposed calves, just like the rest of the extraordinary “dresses”. Another look, also in the same shade of pink, was an elongated blazers with harness belts tied all around the model’s body, while the floral armor made of booming, red fur pom poms shouted one thing – make love, don’t fight. There was a decadent, bourgeois feeling of couture, but simultaneously, Kawakubo broke up with chambre syndicale conventions, and totally ripped the French fanciness off. Who do you call a rebel now?

Slide1-kopia 5

Slide2-kopia 3

Slide3-kopia 2

Slide4

Slide1-kopia 3

Not Just a Punk. Acne Studios AW16

KIM_3848

You always feel an energetic attitude at Acne Studios collections, naturally caused by the bold colour palette, psychedelic prints and the 80s spirit which surrounds the clothes. The creative director of the brand, Jonny Johansson, has been inspired by a Californian punk band, The Cramps, and their rebellious, acid-dyed looks. But the autumn-winter 2016 outing wasn’t a wannabe “grunge” collection. Johansson reinterpreted his obsession, playing with silhouettes (orange, duvet jackets worn as kimono dresses, for example) and textures. From a transparent PVC top, which hid a striped mini-dress, to über-cool yellow leopard patterns on the knits and undies, the designer proves that a punk soul has many forms of its appearance – but it always keeps on looking defiant, and going against the flow!

Slide7

Slide5

Slide8

Slide6

Slide2-kopia

Brave Velvets. Haider Ackermann AW16

1166544

It’s a tough world outside and I want to have this gracefulness, this brightness, happiness,” Haider Ackermann said afterwards his autumn-winter 2016 show. “To show the other side of what we are confronted with every day.” Ackermann’s brave season is infinitely Haider, as the silhouettes, which continue to evolve from the last spring’s outing, are all about the jaw-dropping varsity jackets, super skinny pants and feminine dresses – and one of them, specifically, was cut up to the hip, looking fierce in velvet red. By coincidence, the Belgian designer moved the topic of the season’s hottest trend, so velvet (seen recently at Rochas and Vetements). It’s virually everywhere in this collection, ranging from dusty pink to emerald green. And it’s even in the hair of the models, tied up in for of colourful, quite abstract dreadlocks. Love it.

Slide1-kopia 4

_ARC0259

1166533

Slide4

1166550

Slide3

_ARC0221

Slide2-kopia 2

Slide1-kopia 3