Eerie Youth. Vetements AW16

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With a sexually exaggerated pre-school uniform from the Soviet times opening the show, Demna Gvasalia and the design collective behind Vetements presented more than one sin in the gothic-style Cathedral of America. After a sleazy sex-club and a cheesy Chinese restaurant, a church seemed to be the next pretty unclear choice for a show venue – however, the clothes purely defined Vetements and it’s already well know, anti-fashion approach. Calling it a street wear brand is a colossal mistake, when you see the prices of these very well-manufactured coats and dresses, but in fact, Vetements is based on the sweat-shirts, which are transformed into new volumes every season. Moving away from the over-sized one, which stormed all the retail points last season, this time the hoodies had a zombie-look – the shoulders were lost somewhere in translation, and the solemn faces of the street-cast models perfectly matched the atmosphere of the collection. The slogans, like Sexual Fantasies, just made it all even more strange and… gripping.

The distinctly American, motocross rose embroideries on knee-high boots and over-sized shirts confronted with chic, gold velvet suits. But there were also the red puffas, the next winter bite for the label’s fans. Vetements, and its leading designer, Demna Gvasalia (who has just debuted at Balenciaga, review soon!), are on the tip of everyone’s lips in the industry, and not only because their collections are filled with youthful, uncertain energy – people simply want these clothes, and want this styling. And they want to Instagram that obsession, too. Even though the latter wasn’t the initial aim of the collective…

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