Men’s – The Tourist. Loewe AW15

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I want people to come here and like something – if you like one thing that’s great,” said Jonathan Anderson. “Nothing has to make sense together. I want people to just hone in on specific pieces. You have to let people have the freedom to do what they want.” This is why he doesn’t see this men’s collection for Loewe as a show presentation, but rather a place where people can come and see, feel and touch – like the Paris showroom. The Spanish heritage label, Loewe, went great revolution under Anderson’s androgynous wings. But for Loewe, opposite to his own namesake label, he thinks in a bit different way. “I’m obsessed with this idea of doing something and letting it go,” he explained. “You don’t own it anymore. It doesn’t matter anyway, as fashion eats into itself. When you inherit an archive, you start to realise that.” The collection itself, having that dramatic modern, felt not modern, but nostalgic. Those pants, jackets from 40’s… and these heroic wool ponchos and lambskin totes. I can’t really see anything in my personal taste, but the total outcome & concept feels enjoyably fresh and different.

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Men’s – Haunted Race. Givenchy AW15

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Riccardo Tisci pleases me from time to time – and this collection is good. It’s spooky, artistic, haunted, mysterious… the models had their faces painted in abstract ways and all of them looked superb on that red glitter runway. The boys wore strongly embroidered varsity jackets while girls… couture. Yep. Riccardo Tisci brings haute couture back to Givenchy. And that’s just great in my opinion. Thankfully, Riccardo goes away from the commercial side, and thinks beauty and craftsmenship again!

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Men’s – Art Student. Maison Margiela AW15

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Still not under John Galliano’s wings because of some top secret reasons, the new Maison Margiela collection for men is… well, very Margiela. When the Maison Margiela studio doesn’t know how to shock or provoke, they just splash paint everywhere they feel like, and make it all look so whatever. Painted jackets, hands, pants – I mean, that’s every art student’s daily wardrobe. The boogie nights knits with these melange psychedelic prints are artsy too. But, common Margiela – I can’t wait to see Galliano’s first ready-to-wear comeback!

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Men’s – Weary Warriors. Yohji Yamamoto AW15

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Violent Darkness. The make-up faux scars on the faces. The winter guys from Yohji Yamamoto are not the ones you want to mess up with. That was a very classical collection courtesy of Yamamoto – “black says it all: don’t bother me, I don’t bother you” is the most famous quote and motto the designer cultivates each year. Black blazers, black pants, black shirts. Poetic, mysterious. And aggressive thanks to the imprint of fighting on model’s faces. Except the darkness, Yohji showed gleaming velvet suits with marble prints to make all more philosophical.

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Autumn Breeze. Lemaire Pre-Fall’15

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After he left Hermes to concentrate on his own label, Christophe Lemaire is now showing pre-fall, too. The one for 2015 is his first one, and it’s… gorgeous. Presented on the beach in the Southern France, Lemaire dressed the model in his all time signatures – denim jacket and jeans combo, high quality wool & cashmere knitted sweater and the masculine coat. Isn’t that a timeless warbrobe? Also, we’ve saw red in his new designs – it looked dynamic, but at the same time toned and chic. In reality, with the word “chic” you can easily describe the whole collection. It’s absolutely stylish, wearable and perfect for autumn breeze. Biarritz… Firstly published on nuicons.com

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