Salzburg. Chanel Pre-Fall’15

December 2, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

The strongly anticipated Chanel metiers d’art collection for Pre-Fall 2015 is reavealed. In the heart of Schloss Leopoldskron, one of the most magnificient and historical places in Austria, the show was presented, keeping it between the border lines of Salzburg’s legacy and Karl Lagerfeld buzz. As you might guess, there were lots of embroideries, knits and embellishments which are not only typical for this region of Europe, but also for the metiers d’art tradition. First of all, Salzburg is the place where Coco Chanel found her first inspiration for the iconic little black jacket- just by seeing the lobby boy’s “outfit”. So, no wonder why we saw a lot of it here, in new colours and versions. Worn with sweat-pants (yes, in Austria), super opulent bags, feather trimmed hats and brogues, the clothes felt nostaligic with a fresh perspectve. Victorian turtlnecks and floral motives where here, too. Plus, the clothes for men reminded me more of waiters in Bavarian restaurant rather than Salzburg princes… Truly, I thought the collection will be much worse. But it wasn’t. It had a nice sense of humour, warm venue (not some kind of super-market) which was the Schloss library chamber. For a while I observed more deeply Karl Lagerfeld’s moves at Chanel and the outcome is- his Pre-Falls are better, than all the other collections. After Mumbai, Moscow, Edinbourgh, Dallas, Salzburg feels really fine- all of them are showing what metiers d’art is. And now, it’s time for Cracow in my opinion. The city’s charm would look great at Chanel’s next Pre-Fall…

Voyager. Celine Resort 2015

October 30, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Phoebe Philo is the woman designing for women. She knows best what they need and when they need. For the highly anticipated Resort 2015, Philo brought us totally new volumes and lengths- floor sweeping knitted dresses, voluminous capes and comfortable, over-sized tank tops. That’s a minimalist heaven with a twist of voyage souvenirs. Ethnic fabrics, pon-pons, fringes and the “Soft Ballerinas” were the factors that made think Cote d’Azur, Myanmar and a bit of New York’s attitude. But all of that bound with the Parisian ribbon of slight nonchalance. As you may see, the collection brings a lot of new features to Celine: waist-bags (LOVE!), bold colours and… yes, the first ever Resort campaign. With Daria Werbowy, of course. Is there something better than all of that? Well… only to touch and feel the clothes in person!

Trend Report SS15

October 24, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Summer is the time when we loose our self to the beach, sun, parties. And it also bring the new tendencies to fashion. The SS15 season is simply full of bright, chic ideas- with Seventies influences from Saturday night fever to hippy deluxe, a khaki nod to military style alongside nautical accents, experiments with transparency, patchworks of vintage prints and a mix & match approach to volume and fabric, for summer 2015 we’re set to see contrast take center stage. It’s a storm of ideas this season. So here’s Design & Culture by Ed’s TREND REPORT for summer.

Who doesn’t love boho? It’s so french, slightly gypsy and very comfortable. Mix delicate, fragile fabrics with over-sized trousers and turbans; invest in a huge, ethnic towel or cape for beach days. Stepping straight out of 1970s Marrakech, these long, light and flowing dresses will billow in the breeze this summer as you take on the elements in style. Inspired with over-sized style Talitha Getty, the boho chic feels totally all right for summer. Baja East, Dries Van Noten, Missoni, Chloe, Rodebjer.

Again, beach. Nautical stripes and captain jackets are the IT trend if talking of a summer escape. Or even a spa run-away. Take Acne Studios, where the models wore towels as mini dresses. Or Jacquemus which talked about beaching season in his beloved Marseille in France. And even dough beach-fashion might make you think sexy, the designers for SS15 are much more democratic and safe (unless you forget your bikini under Lanvin’s mesh top)! Anthony Vaccarello, Jacquemus, Marc Jacobs, Acne Studios, Lanvin.

Oriental vibe was on most of the designer’s mood-boards. Obi belts, kimono silhouttes, sharp colours were all here during the Milan and Paris fashion week! There is something sensual in these cut-outs. and the japonesque over-sized trousers look chic with sandals and quiet, comfortable pumps. It’s truly a zen state for summer. Alexander McQueen, Marni, Gucci, Celine.

Boyish trend is nothing really, new but the androgynity grows in power every season. Blazers, tailored trousers and le smokings from 70’s are stealing the spotlight. Also, the business woman in mini skirts chages her femme fatale shirt into a delicate, loose tank top. Saint Laurent, Maison Martin Margiela, Sonia Rykiel.

Lace is the most fragile fabric of all. It’s a bit ironic, but at the same time very naive and feminine. Nicolas Ghesquiere looked at this traditional materials from a much more modern perspective, while Chloe made the lace dresses a great tribute to the 70’s free spirit. Louis Vuitton, Valentino, Givenchy, Chloe, Louis Vuitton.

Who ever said that prints should be same? The SS15 is full-filled with everything- from florals like at Celine (YES.) to sharktooth a Mona Kowalski’s A Detacher. It was surely one of the most cheerful seasons for a long time… Roksanda, Thakoon, Celine, A Detacher, Marc by Marc Jacobs.

Loose yourself to dance! The 70’s glamour and Saturday Night Fever are back in opulent, sexy and chic way. Who knows it best? Tom Ford. Those transparent tops with flowers embroidered on nipples and the high waisted trousers are the perfect fit for a lux disco. Acne Studios, Saint Laurent, Isabel Marant, Tom Ford.

And now a contrast way of partying- being the Uptown girl, with a creme sweater, white blazer and comfortable, but elegant trousers. The New Yorker and Parisians know that trend best. It’s not about “drifting in gold”. It’s about being “less is more”. Celine, Victoria Beckham, Lanvin, Tibi.

Khaki is a movement of military trend although this season, it’s much more calm and elegant. V-neck sweaters, bomb dresses, artsy tracksuits and leather coats are the thing for active summers in forests. Khaki, in overall, is a cool colour. Creatures of Comfort, Sonia Rykiel, Marc Jacobs, Chanel, Hermes.

Fly high and free as a bird! Feathers and feather like materials made all of the gowns look fresh and beautiful. MSGM’s main motive was freedom, which was perfectly represented by small, paradise hummingbirds and parrots. Fendi flies, too, with their chic cocktail dresses. MSGM, Proenza Schouler, Fendi, Balenciaga.

I am in love with this trend, as it’s my moment’s obsession. Old, oriental tapestries and 70’s patterns were combined together, to create dreamy coats, dresses and pantalons. The proof for the new electic chic is the incredible fabrics at Dries Van Noten, the graphic foliage and florals at Maison Martin Margiela, and Prada’s eastern evocations. Maison Martin Margiela, Dries Van Noten, Maison Martin Margiela, Prada.

Art always go in pair with fashion. That’s why the biggest artists of SS15, Juny Watanabe and Thomas Tait, brought as cubism in new, super bold dimension. This season saw an intriguing combination of influences from Roy Lichtenstein, one of the world’s leading pop-artists, Mondrian and Sonia Delaunay. With circle motifs, bright colors and bold, intersecting stripes the collections were a truly vibrant display. Loewe, Junya Watanabe, Dries Van Noten, Thomas Tait, Roksanda.

RED RED RED RED. Bloody red. Rose red. Love red. Temper red. Leather red. Vetements, Comme des Garcons, Louis Vuitton, Miu Miu.

Black & white is a combination of modernity and elegance. It’s a classic. It’s ethernal. Jonathan Anderson of his name-sake brand mastered this contrast in a very lady-like way, while Anthony Vaccarello made the models look like sex bombs in those giving-leg gowns. Balmain, J.W. Anderson, Anthony Vaccarello.

What is American style? It’s all about being fit, loving rodeo, having a cacti and playing Barbie. My new favourite all-American labels? Mara Hoffman which fuses denim with crochet and The Elder Statesman, which is all about dyed prints and best, U.S. quality. It’s an American Dream! Mara Hoffman, The Elder Statesman, Iceberg, Alexander Wang, Moschino.

Understated Luxury. Hermes SS15

October 5, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

That was the last season of Christophe Lemaire at Hermes- and surely, it really was worth an applause. The understated luxury, traveler chic and the elegant style is everything that Lemaire achieved at Hermes and continues in his own, name-sake, brand. Cream and white layers in alligator printed suede, oversized Hermès prints blown up on belted in scarf dresses and loose silken separates in dusky pink and golden yellow all summed up the sense of freeing ease that Lemaire imbued on the house. These clothes don’t need bells and whistles and neither does the house when you have an arsenal of fine fabrications. But who is next at Hermes? It’s Nadege Vanhee-Cybulski, which comes to the house with experience from The Row and Celine. In other words, it’s surely going to be a match in heaven. However I will still miss Christophe Lemaire at this French, super strong house.

By the way… it’s the last “reviewed” collection from SS15 by me. This season was beautiful. Can’t wait what the designers will show in the next half of the year!

Bad Girls. Miu Miu SS15

October 5, 2014October 5, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

The 50’s bad girls went down the runway at Miu Miu SS15 show… with their eyebrows to match. cropped tops, bustiers, checks, pencil skirts, pastel coats and kitten heels- those are the Miu Miu girl attributes. The silhouette was Miuccia’s well-versed version of the housecoat, the pencil skirt and the ruffled prettiness up on top. Miuccia had them trussed up in finery – 18th century style floral silk and cloqué, counter balanced with fraying wool check and murky shades of leather. Lady goes vamp. Tarts and vicars. Runaway girls. They don’t give a damn about their ex boyfriend. They keep up together and get high together, but in style and chic.