Time Travel. Louis Vuitton SS15

October 5, 2014October 5, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

The Fondation Louis Vuitton, Frank Gehry’s new masterpiece, was gleaming above the Bois de Boulogne in the October sun. And here, also, the third Louis Vuitton show was held under creative direction of Nicolas Ghesquiere. It was literally a time travel. Sci-fi movie. Big, cyborg platforms with youthful faces speaking in unison lines that had been lifted and modified from the 1984 David Lynch film, Dune: “A beginning is a very delicate time…Day zero in the heart of the project, code-named GEHRY014…A ship surrounded by a gigantic woodland, a ship made up of 3,600 glass panels and 15,000 tons of steel, a ship that serves as an incubator and ignites our fellow creative minds…Oh, yes, I forgot to tell you, today, October 1, the LV house wants to explore the ability to travel to any part of the universe without moving. The journey starts here.” We know already from Ghesquiere’s Balenciaga times, that he loves science-fiction. But that was major. That was the start. First looks were all about folklore knits. Then, sharp denim. Modernistic dresses. Floral collages. Fun with LV logo. “No rupture with last season,” Ghesquière said afterward. “It’s still a wardrobe, it’s about an instinctive mix.” Indeed there was a mix of wearable and couture-ish vibe. But it was totally Nicolas Ghesquiere. What are your thoughts about the show?

Japan Noir. Alexander McQueen SS15

October 5, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Sarah Burton of Alexander McQueen brings new mood to the brand- Japan and it’s more sensual, darker site. So what we saw? Leather kimono coats with embroidered florals; super high shoes without heels (you know, Daphne Guiness); the models walked with faces encircled in black lacquer frames, courtesy of the ingenious makeup-ist Pat McGrath; everything was tightly belt-up and strengthen up with harness bustiers. So now wonder why Sarah thought of Japan this season. After he travel to this beautiful country full of cherry-blossom trees and traditional Ryokan houses, she created a sexy, but mindful collection. There was a maniacal attention to detail in the pearls that seeded the flowers on a skirt of ruffled chiffon, but it would be pleasing to think that this collection represented a new perspective for Burton. At least the history here was truly personal—or as personal as that grab bag of her souvenirs from her Japanese trips. And the face-off between geisha and samurai would seem like the very embodiment of the savage beauty that nestles at the dark heart of Alexander McQueen.

Science Chic. Iris Van Herpen SS15

October 5, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Iris Van Herpen is known for her scientific approach towards fashion. For summer, the designer was inspired with magnets- the name of the collection Magnetic Motion, which matches perfectly. A visit to the Large Handron Collider in CERN, Switzerland was for Iris the thing. There, where the atoms are divided in two, Van Herpen learnt how to “connect”. She applied the idea to manipulating the building blocks of the collection at times—for example, the shoes were “grown” with magnets and a fixative applied, each one slightly different. The pièce de résistance “halo” silhouettes at the end of the show were the physical embodiment in silicone of invisible magnetic forces. These were perfected by the Canadian architect Philip Beesley, one of Van Herpen’s frequent collaborators, who was joined this time by the Dutch artist Jólan van der Wiel.  And all of that super high-technology applied on a simple, black dress or a tunic. You must admit- the effect is ground-shaking.

Selling Feminism. Chanel SS15

October 4, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Karl Lagerfeld tried doing feminism after a super-market and space odyssey shows. And it felt so, so fake. If you spread feminism through fashion, then at list use more than three models of colour. Use plus-size models and not only the glossy Cara Delevigne and Georgia May Jagger combo which are skinny and “perfect”. It’s not feminism, Karl. It’s just giving a bunch of girls few posters with signs like Boys should also be pregnant or He for She. Showing this, and saying that it’s feminism, seems to be really funny and silly comparing to what, for example, happens in Turkey or Russia. These women really fight for women’s rights. Maybe I shouldn’t connect the fashion thing with politics, but using too big words for too small things isn’t a good matter for an important aim. And by the way- how many women in the world can buy every three months a one-season-only Chanel bag? I thing something is wrong up here… let’s just stay with one thing: MAKE FASHION in fashion (but unfortunately, even the horrible clothes didn’t help the whole collection out of the situation).

Hollywood Boulevard. Saint Laurent SS15

October 4, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Saint Laurent’s SS15 was a really sultry, hot and steamy event. Other designers are channeling the idealism of the early ’70s this season; Hedi Slimane is into the sexy. “Un, deux, trois, coucher avec toi,” Al Eide sang on the soundtrack, specially commissioned for the show, but don’t let the French lyrics fool you. Everybody got the impression they were in Slimane’s adopted hometown of L.A., hanging backstage with glam-rock fan girls Lori Maddox and Sable Starr in their bad old not even legal days on the Sunset Strip. Is the new collection new tendancy of dressing “slutty”? Is it the Parisian non-chalance? Is it only all about nightlife of Los Angeles teens? One thing’s sure- it’s totally, totally Hedi. He does this aesthetic from the beginning of her Saint Laurent career. And this makes him a real individual of fashion world. These killer heels, super mini skirts, bawdy sheer blouses and avant-garde turbans looked like contrast- but together, they created a chaotic harmony. Lets also note the couture part- the “dirty” dresses were all ambroidered with crystals and sequins. Up close, these skirts and blazers were all about eel leather and velvet. Still having mixed emotions about the collection, but it was surely one of the most unforgettable this season. Art by John Baldessari.