German Summer. Jil Sander SS15

September 20, 2014September 20, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Rodolfo Paglialunga, the ex-Vionnet designer, is now the creative director of the minimalistic brand Jil Sander. This quiet designer is now on the place of Jil Sander, who left her house a year ago, and this is his first show… and it’s very German. By saying German, I mean it’s super clean, super minimal and super effortless. But it’s totally not that, what Raf Simons used to show year ago (when Sander AGAIN left her label). For summer, Rodolfo used a lot of burgundy, blue and black. We’ve got some classical sweaters and shirts… In other words, yawn. But still, these clothes are very Jil Sander.

Modern Elegance. Iceberg SS15

September 20, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Alexis Martial is the perfect designer at Iceberg- for his third season at this pretty energetic Italian house, Alexis shows he’s worth of the new status. The Iceberg creative director was inspired by Southern California—the intense colors, its seedy strip malls, the people’s obsession with being physically fit. It made for his best collection yet for Iceberg: confident and vivid and, thanks to the sport influences, easy to wear but pretty elegant. With cacti and pitahaya fruits everywhere, Iceberg is fresh and cool for summer. The tailored pants, innovative fabrics and modernistic prints made the overall look slim and sleek. We’ve got to have an eye on Iceberg’s rebirth…

New Boho. Missoni SS15

September 20, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Angela Missoni, the new woman behind the iconic brand, Missoni, showed the new boho chic in her SS15 collection. Covered with the ethnic Missoni ZIGZAG print, we saw a rhapsody of over-size tredn: trousers in aqua marine colour; skirts in blush pink; Diana Vreeland like turbans on the model’s heads; gorgeous pyjama shirts… in other words, I wanted to jump into the perfect David Hockney pool, when I saw the collection for the first time. There were sensational flaring coats in lace knit double-faced with nylon tulle—a knitwear breakthrough for Missoni, because it created a perfect paradox: substance with a gossamer lightness. The embroidered flowers only made the coats better. The simplest shapes—a smock, a shift—were elongated and energized by finely graded colors. Missoni ruled yesterday with it’s boho triumph. Art by David Hockney.

Intrigue. Prada SS15

September 19, 2014September 20, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Staring at undulating purple sand dunes from the deep aubergine carpeted seating, the audience spent a good half an hour getting spaced out to a sci-fi whirring soundtrack that only built up the anticipation. And then the denim stitched coats came out, with Gemma Ward having an epic appearance. And then the Victoriana skirts. And it all changed into intrigue. Darkly romantic, beautiful with imperfections and shinings of the past without literally referencing tropes of the decade – we are totally convinced that we all need to look at the seventies through Miuccia-tinted glasses. Even these mysterious kimono dresses worn by types like Lara Stone felt slightly perverse but very sublime. Art by Mickalene Thomas.

Military Rococo. No.21 SS15

September 19, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Allesandro Dell’Acqua presented a new fashion genre: military rococo. It’s deeply Italian- embroideries, surrealism, opulence- but also strictly casual (checks and waist belts). And it’s seriously lovely! For summer, No.21 presented an avant-garde fusion of ready-to-wear clothing and alta moda embellishments on skirts and shirts. There was also something punk about the collections, Crop tos had strong Scottish checks on them, and were cooly embroidered with crystals… and the shoes were all about Salvador Dali to me. The exagerrated ribbon had funny eyes attched to them, making the feet look pretty different. But that’s only a good thing.