The 70’s. Gucci SS15

September 19, 2014September 19, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Frida Gianini re-visted the 70’s for summer, making the collection boheme and luxury. Fur, velvet, jeans, logo- all of that was present, with lots of embroideries and gorgeous handkerchiefs tied around model’s necks. Oh, and if you have an old, Jackie Gucci bag which you don’t wear because of the logo or the “luxurious” brownish colour, then it’s it time to shine again! This bag with the Gucci striped handle is having it’s comeback. The collection itself isn’t kind of mind-blowing. It’s good, it brings luxury and Gucci legacy back to it’s roots. It’s basically Gucci.

Italian Summer. Stella Jean SS15

September 19, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Aah, those Italian summers, where you simply swim the pool, sunbathe with a favourite book and visit those small, cozy villages… Stella Jean, the designer coming from Hawaii, which is based in Milan, really brought the Mediterrean sun to all of us in her latest collection for summer. The emerging star of MFW brings up odd silhouttes of her signature, strongly printed skirts and over-sized t-shirts, giving us the heat of Sardinia in one of the capes and beauty of Corsica in another dress. With the prints painted on the clothes, the collection feels very Stella Jean and very, very appropriate for hot summer! Instantly in love!

Cute Love. Simone Rocha SS15

September 18, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

I hear Vanessa Paradis Pourtant when I look at Simone Rocha’s SS15 collection. It’s so romantic, oh my! Ad cute! Those model’s curly hair styled with these fur trimmed broques and fragile dresses feel so truly naive and sublime at the same time… Rocha has always been ambitious with her textiles, but what felt new this season was the sensitivity and specificity with which she deployed them: a light touch of embroidery on pink mesh, the graphic counterpoint of floral embellishment on a sheer white sheath, that lurid marabou snaking around a dress of silvery brocade. The collection, having a lot of themes, felt all the time truly girlie and interesting (my heart belongs to those shoes with fur!) with those rose appliqued sheer dresses. Surely, this will be a retail challenge- but Simone’s fashion is always best-sellng at London’s Dover Street Market, so no worries!

Show Girl. Tom Ford SS15

September 18, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Tom Ford sexy ups his label with every season. But this was over the top! Tricky velvet suits, sheer tops, sequin flowers sticked to nipples, Gucci-esque white gowns… a real show-girl time. The soundtrack was a narcotized female version of “Addicted to Love” (the vocalist’s emphasis on the addiction, rather than the love), to which extraordinarily proportioned girls—rail thin, seven feet tall in their platform clogs—teetered down the mirrored catwalk, eyes laden with mascara, hair in teased-out shags. Tom’s SS15 isn’t really about the “sexy” office go-out, but it’s surely for women which feel sexy in their skin… and attitude.

Disruption. Thomas Tait SS15

September 17, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Brutalistic venue. Loud music. Nipples. Plastic. Stripes. Provocative. Georges Rousse. Minimal, but abstract. The star is born. Thomas Tait, the latest treasure of London showed a striking collection, under the wings of LVMH. And it’s totally something you didn’t see before (well, only if you saw the older collections by Tait). “I work so hard on the clothes inside and out, and most of the time it does boil down to a straight up runway image and people only get a fraction of the story.” Thomas Tait might me slightly similar to Gareth Pugh- also a Brit doing extravagant fashion. But what I love more about Tait is the fact that his clothes are wearable. The leather geometrical cut-out skirts, satin tops, transparency… who cares about the nipple? We live in the times, where being scared of your own nipple is funny. Transparent dresses were worn with metallic stilettos that morphed into nude tights, and ran alongside block coloured leather jackets with only one sleeve. I also loved the stripe episode! It was sexy but pretty “ugly”. Just like the colours, which were eye catchy, but for most very unattractive. This collection just says one thing: whatever. Whatever people say, Thomas Tait is Thomas Tait. And that counts for now. Love that vibe.