Masculine. Haider Ackermann AW14

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Haider Ackermann knocked it off. The AW14 is amazing. Why? Because Ackermann got his own signature style. And that’s it. Digging in the masculine style, he creates elegant, distinctive collections for his clients that love his fashion. The recent collection is just that- very masculine, but at the same time full of feminine cuts. Tweeds worn over wool, maxi grey dresses verses long Saville Row coats… Haider’s AW14 had some opposing elements- but it all works out in the best way. Nothing to add nor subtract. That’s why it’s my favourite Parisian collection for fall to date.

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Manga. Yohji Yamamoto AW14

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I am really into Yohji Yamamoto this season. His menswear for fall got me high (all these fantastic coats are on my wishlist!) and now this collection for women… Hypnotic manga fantasies come alive in voluminous cocoon coats and decorated leather, like by magic! Yohji, known for using only black in his collections, said backstage, that many people told, him that he uses too much of black… So he made it again, in his own way- black, huge, huge coats worn with colourful hats; then, again these coats, but with hand-painted yellow roses on! Some kind of eyes, mouths, toys, monsters came across. Acid coloured trolls and one-eyed demons became part of a hypnotic Japanese manga print that adorned enormous goose down padded coats. While hand painted illustrations of astronauts and leopards decorated leather coats. And then, the ‘hair’ was crafted from coloured wool into extreme shapes, like abstract paintings. Each model was marked with black paint around their eyes, like fantasy warriors. That show got really something in it… Maybe because we came to Yamamoto’s genius once again?

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Romeo Julia. Martin Margiela AW14

20140301-075949-PM.jpgAfter last season’s tribute to showgirl’s bling-bling, Maisom Martin Margiela went a Romeo and Julia. Like in Shakespeare’s drama, the clothes of Julia looked always romantic and fragile, while Romeo had a typical masculine style. So in this Margiela love story, we have a clash between the the girl and the boy- lace dresses worn over the men’s suite, or other way round. The colours were based on beige and bordeaux, mixed with checks and floral embroideries… It’s hard to tell if I like it or not- it’s an interesting collection, but it doesn’t highlight this season.20140301-093350-PM.jpg20140301-080905-PM.jpg20140301-080912-PM.jpg20140301-080928-PM.jpg20140301-093401-PM.jpg

Beige. Sonia Rykiel AW14

Slide08Geraldo da Conceicao is the new designer of Sonia Rykiel already for three seasons including AW14… and I am missing real Sonia. I mean, Geraldo, (never heard of him, but he designed for few houses, making his name unknown) isn’t creating bad collections. But they are so shapeless. Kind of pretty, but without WOW like it was with Sonia. The AW14 was all about beige (so MaxMara) furs and Moi print. There was also an interesting colour splash at the end… although, I can’t say it’s shocking. Sonia Rykiel is a house with history, known for fun and Parisienne chic. And it can’t get “minimalistic” like everything. I don’t feel the spark.
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Deja Vu. Dior AW14

Slide01O-oh. I understand Raf’s aesthetic is so minimalistic, feminine and innovative… but this starts to get boring what he does at Dior. And most of all, what he done at AW14. This is his biggest fail since he came to this Parisian maison. It’s too new new look, too minimalistic and too passe. Seriously, see the first Raf Simons collection for the house (SS13) and now see this. Firsly, these coloured bags and scarves looked nice on masculine suits and those pretty to death dresses at the start of new legacy… But now we are sinking in the monotony of Raf Simons straight rules. Nothing caught my eyes here- the colours looked bad, the tied strings on dresses looked bad, the green column gown was a deja vu from Jil Sander past, and the last dresses with crystals are copies of the last Haute Couture for SS14… Does Raf thinks he is so legendary to create an “account” collection? I say “no”. And we certainly need something new to come.

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