Julien David, the french designer who designs clothes Made In Japan, did an outstanding job for AW14- his recent and really fresh collection is a mix of Japanese perfection of chaos and Parisian tres chic style. Caps worn with tri-coloured dress made out of sequins and other bling-bling embroideries… Black coats styled with sandals on socks and geometrical knitted dress… Glitter clutches… It pretty much feels innovative and “every girl wants now” desire… Love Julien and his work!
That was one of the best Lanvin collection by Alber Elbaz for a long time. It was so jazzy, so loose and feminine… No more COOL or DREAM logos around- just pure Lanvin. First, let’s start from the hats- they are fantastic. A bit tribal, but at the same time really glamour with all these feathers. Then, the tweed dresses and jackets all in black. Maybe there wasn’t as much colour as usually at Lanvin, but it felt pretty fine with the toned blue and red. Loved the silhouettes that look flattering on models (and on Edie Campbell!) and the bags that seem to be a little more updated… Thankfully, Alber escaped from his coma, and again creates collections that may be even approved (if she was alive) by Jeanne Lanvin. But still, one mystery is not explained- what did Rihanna do on front row? Was she the unexpected guest…?
In his aesthetically world of dark chaos and comfortable, timeless pieces, Rick Owens seem to ignore all the rules of model line and beauty. Forget skinny girls and “pretty” faces. The AW14 was all about Parisian women who are Rick’s friends- they don’t have anything to do with fashion. And they wore the new clothes on the runway, that were really cool, in their own, everyday way. The clothes maybe weren’t unexpected – although these nun bonnets were terrible- but still, they felt Rick. What do you think of this kind of diversity in fashion? I am totally for ‘yes’.
I love that Carven collection! It is so pretty and cute! So Parisienne! The colours of pink, orange and blue look so adorably sexy with this leopard fur on collars… And those surrealistic embroideries on dresses look very mature, but at the same perfect for a Carven femme. I must admit, for few seasons Carven did boring collections, but this time they out-stood their selves. When I see those dresses I here early Vanessa Paradis… “Joe le taxi , Y va pas partout, Y marche pas au soda, Son saxo jaune, Connait toutes les rues par coeur, Tous les p’tits bars, Tous les coins noirs, Et la Seine, Et ses ponts qui brillent “
Alexander Wang impressed me this time with his AW14 for Balenciaga. The collection is cool, pretty and delicate. With Gisele Budchen on finale wearing crystalized sweater, the collection took a more elegant twist. Fur trimmed cocoon coats, synthetic chunky knitwears and beautiful leather dresses are just few highlights… The clothes were somewhere between urban fun and Parisian elegance; colours versus toned greys; boots and stilettos; Le Smoking changed into a coat. Not only it was ingenious, but also very modern and… WANGed.
Design & Culture by Ed 