Dogma. The Society Archive SS27

September 19, 2026 | Design & Culture by Ed

I’ve been following The Society Archive – Marcus Allen‘s brainchild – since its launch in 2020, and, to be very frank with you, I’ve been studying its Americana-induced imagery religiously ever since. The Society Archive is hard to classify: it’s not just a brand and not just a vintage shop. It’s a community of people drawn to this very seductive vision of America, where preppy has holes, suede is lived-in, and the echoes of Bruce Weber’s idyllic sultriness are well and truly alive.

Spring-summer 2027 marks Allen’s runway debut, and takes inspiration from his personal collection of vintage pieces, which he’s been collecting since he was a teenager. Titled “Dogma” (“it suggests an unpretentious approach to dressing without compromising precision,” Allen said), the collection is like a antique quilt repurposed into something contemporary: a cocktail of stories and memories, stitched together with very, very good-looking models (cast by none other than James Scully, who used to work with Tom Ford in the Gucci days).

Styled by Tony Irvine, the collection proposes familiarity through contrast, referencing garments from the 1890s and the 1990s alike. The opening look was a pair of silk taffeta board shorts with silk drawstrings, paired with a baseball cap pierced with seashells. Key moments included a sand-colored suit with a neon hibiscus-printed cummerbund that closely resembled the fly of a men’s swimsuit – a custom print rendered in nylon with silk laces; a navy fleece quarter-zip layered over a custom-printed cotton skirt with a silk train; and a bright orange opera coat thrown over a plaid sarong.

And then there were the chill-red briefs, complete with a little butt-crack moment, that set the audience – and the Internet – ablaze. New York Fashion Week certainly needs moments like this.

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Not Enough. Calvin Klein Collection SS27

September 19, 2026 | Design & Culture by Ed

The struggle of Calvin Klein Collection continues. Yes, this was Veronica Leoni’s best work to date, but it’s not enough. The collection might work at Jil Sander – especially the T-shirt and maxi tulip skirt, very Raf Simons for Jil Spring 2011 – but it doesn’t convince me that it’s either Calvin or essential. READ THE FULL REVIEW HERE.

ED’s SELECTION:

Calvin Klein Collection Suede Scarf

Calvin Klein Collection Bri Leather Pumps

Calvin Klein Collection Gemma Cotton Straight-leg Pants

Calvin Klein Collection Lynette Wool-denim Jacket

Calvin Klein Collection Gathered Duchesse Satin Maxi Skirt

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Core Values. Khaite SS27

September 19, 2026September 19, 2026 | Design & Culture by Ed

Cate Holstein’s Khaite is one of the most powerful female-led businesses in town. Her boutiques in New York remind you that she’s really great at leather, denim, and footwear. Sometimes, the designer herself seems to forget that and stages fashion shows that feel just so dark and distanced. Last season, I wasn’t quite sure what she wanted to say. But the spring-summer 2027 collection had bright moments, especially when Holstein returned to her core. READ THE FULL TEXT HERE.

ED’s SELECTION:

KHAITE Andee Crinkled-leather Ankle Boots

KHAITE Farley Straight-leg Jeans

KHAITE Franc Cropped Crepe Jacket

KHAITE Patri Wool Midi Skirt

KHAITE Cate Leather-trimmed Calf Hair Tote

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Dance! Eckhaus Latta SS27

September 18, 2026 | Design & Culture by Ed

At MoMA, I watched a group of dancers rehearsing their performance. It was insanely beautiful just to watch them move: so confident in their bodies, full of grace and passion. They were dressed minimally, as dancers tend to be, but in a way that felt almost naked and completely liberating. I thought to myself: this is so Eckhaus Latta.

So when Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta presented their spring-summer 2027 collection, I just knew those MoMA dancers would look sublime in these clothes. Like no one else in New York, the designers make unfussy garments that are intelligent, perfectly made, and deeply body-loving. You simply can’t look unflattering in an Eckhaus Latta dress or knitted top.

Their new-season dresses– with an emphasis on never-vulgar sheerness and cloudlike, weightless shifts – made you want to dance, as did a stunningly simple white peplum top. A white T-shirt and a pair of blue jeans? Revolutionary, actually. All I want to wear this month.

The brand has just wrapped up a successful Mango collaboration, which impressed with its quality; now, they’re premiering their J.Crew collection, all about dissecting the codes of preppiness, the Eckhaus Latta way. Oversaturation? Not really. Both collaborations make tremendous sense and seem to declare one thing: people want Eckhaus Latta.

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Delightfully Eccentric. Tory Burch SS27

September 17, 2026 | Design & Culture by Ed

Of all the fashion capitals, New York seems to appreciate female designers the most. They don’t just flourish creatively here, but also seem to feel at ease. That sense of unstrained playfulness was the driving force behind Tory Burch’s spring-summer 2027 collection.

Even if the silhouettes nodded towards the 1940s – think broad shoulders and high-waisted trousers – the designer wanted to find joy in dressing up, with humor as the secret ingredient. She managed to do that effortlessly with a vintage-y pleated dress accessorized with a feather boa, or with the not-so-prim cardigans embroidered with tiny beads. Then there were scarves adorned with tortoiseshell paillettes, like the ones you might find in Chinatown and throw into an outfit simply to dial down the seriousness of everyday life.

There was something beautifully decaying about the glamour of this collection: a woman who seems aware that she should have been born in a different era, and proudly refuses to conform to the reality she’s living in. Walking the streets of New York this week, I saw many women like this – delightfully eccentric and slightly out of place, and making that their power.