Zazi Vintage

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You will thank me later for telling you about Zazi Vintage. Although Jeanne Zizi Margot de Kroon‘s label is based in Berlin, the Dutch entrepreneur has a global vision to share. She quitted modelling industry after her great disillusion with the fashion world’s unethical approach towards sweat-shop production and decided to oppose chain stores’ and big companies’ continous expoitation of female workers. With the founder’s focus on sustainability and women empowerment, Zazi Vintage respects and embraces traditional clothe-making, using rejected fabrics and old materials. The brand’s seasonless pieces are made by local women from distant places. From the most intricately embroidered Suzani coats from Tajikistan to Ikat woven dresses made by  Saheli women, these pieces aren’t just precious and one-of-a-kind additions to a  wardrobe. Zazi Vintage, with support of Institute for Philanthropy and Humanitarian Development, helps girls fund education and continue their incredible work.

Learn more about Zazi Vintage on their site – click here.

Photos by Stefan Dotter.

9 1/2 Weeks of Style

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9 1/2 Weeks directed by Adrian Lyne is a cult film from the 80s, blurring the lines between refined romance and subtle erotica. Elizabeth McGraw (played by super-bombshell, Kim Basinger) and John Gray (young Mickey Rourke) find each other in New York’s Chinatown, and their relationship becomes a journey of love with ups and downs.

But what really strikes you, when you watch the film, is this something sensual about Elizabeth’s clothing. Her knitted sweater is three sizes too big, but the viewer is appealed by the way her body is hidden. As an assistant of art gallery curator, Liz prefers unconventional for her daily wear: pastel-blue tights, Jane Birkin-like basket and her favourite cocoon trench-coat. When with John, she loves her boyfriend’s businessman wardrobe, and choses to wear tailored blazers with shoulder pads and pin-stripe pants. No wonder why the two shop at Comme Des Garçons-like store (which in fact might be one), filled with Japanese avant-garde garments.

New York fashion scene was going through a lot, and all-black was a statement. For exhibition openings, Elizabeth was likely to be seen in a black mini-dresses with exposed shoulder, wearing dark tights of course. Watching this film, I just can’t stop thinking that fashion hasn’t changed even a bit. From Lemaire‘s slouchy shirt-and-pants chic to Jacquemus over-sized jackets, it’s clear that the spirit of 80s feels relevant up to today. While Anthony Vaccarello’s spring-summer 2017 debut for Saint Laurent is pure 9 1/2 Weeks, really: leather secretary skirts, strip-tease-perfect cocktail dresses, killer heels.

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From left: Jacquemus AW16; Saint Laurent SS17; Celine AW14.

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From left: Lemaire SS17; Lemaire AW16; Lemaire AW14.

Similar look: Lemaire belted overcoatLemaire pantsSaint Laurent sequined dress & Jacquemus over-sized blazer.

Loewe Flores

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The place I would love to visit right now is the newly opened flower shop at Madrid’s Casa Loewe. The entire space is tremendous – filled with “myriad of natural Spanish materials, from the spectacular central staircase made of Campaspero stone to the Valencian clay floors below, all imbue the interior with provenance” as the brand says. But the spot with freshly cut flowers steals my heart especially. For this occasion, Jonathan Anderson, the creative director of the house, invited Ariel Dearie (a New York-based florist) and Steven Meisel to create a series of still-life flower portraits. The entire collection of these enchanting photos is now on display at the Jardin Botanico de Madrid.

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A Bigger Splash

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We are all OBSCENE!

I’ve been waiting for A Bigger Splash since last September, and just yesterday I had a chance to see it in the cinema. But the waiting was honestly worth it, as I can openly say that I’m obsessed with it even more than I were few months ago. Luca Guadagnino‘s sultry, Italian sun-bathed thriller, starring Tilda Swinton, Dakota Johnson, Ralph FiennesMatthias Schoenaerts and Lily McMenamy, is a masterpiece. Visually, musically, artistically.

On an idyllic island of Pantelleria, Marianne Lane, a rock-star (played by the one and only Swinton), cures herself from a temporary voice loss and is all in sensual, compassionate relationship with Paul (Schoenaerts). Lying naked on the off-beat beach all day, the couple’s fantasy escape is interrupted by a spontanous visit of chaotic, impulsive Harry (played by Fiennes), Marianne’s music producer and old, drug-fuelled love. He arrives to the island with a shocking surprise: his “newly-discovered” daughter, Penelope (Dakota Johnson), who is a reflection of a melancholic lolita-teenager. The atmosphere gets stinking hot, as jealousy, untamed love and temperamental desire start to ooze in the relations between these equally vivid characters. Dancing to Rolling Stone’s Emotional Rescue, Harry is getting on everybody’s nerves, simultaneously inducing Marianne to fall in love with him, again. On the other side of the terracotta tiled pool, we’ve got Paul, a level-headed, loyal lover to Lane; but then, there is Penelope, whose coquettish behaviour and nasty attitude towards the others will make everything even more complicated…

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A Bigger Splash is a remake of French thriller La Piscine, which is iconic due to star power of Alain Delon, Romy Schneider and Jane Birkin – however, the plot has many reinterpreted, unpredictable twists. As Guadignino believes that fashion plays a major role in his films (!), the frivolous dresses, alluring skirts and sequined jumpsuits a la Ziggy Stardust, designed by Raf Simons during his tenure at Dior, fulfill the meaningful body language of Marianne. Also, the soundtrack of A Bigger Splash was curated in the dynamic, sexy rhyme of this (already) cult film – from rock’n’roll Nevada Wild tracks to operatic Popol Vuh, the play with sound is mind-blowing in here, too.

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Lily McMenamy in "A Bigger Splash"

I rarely (almost never) write about films on my blog – but I just couldn’t hold back from sharing my excitement with Luca’s film. Although it tells about pain and misunderstanding, obscenity and looking into the past, it’s an aesthetically beautiful nod to gestures, touch, sense and unconventional love. Should I even recommend it? Go for it, without consideration.

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Photographs above: Giulio Ghirardi examines the exquisite costumes and props, which helped bulid the elusive seductiveness of A Bigger Splash.

#DACBE in The Waiting Room

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It’s so strange, when you are the person, who writes for magazines, and then… you see yourself in one.

You can’t believe, how happy I am. It’s the first time, when Design & Culture by Ed, my five-year old blog, and my collages (which accompany every fashion show coverage) were featured in a printed magazine! The Waiting Room is a publication that touches on all creative territories, delivering articles on contemporary culture in art and design. The magazine, founded by Mosope Alli, looks forward to still widely unknown artists, fashion’s creative sensations and in-depth, profound interviews. It focuses on art, but in comparison to other big players, Alli tries to leave pretentiousness behind and make a statement – art is all about self-perception. In the first issue of The Waiting Room, I’ve shared my favourite collages from the past few seasons, like military Casely Hayford AW16 for men or Gucci’s Frida Kahlo-inspired collection for women. Also, there’s an interview where I’m discussing my love to collage-making, most inspiring people in the industry I admire and my plans for the future!

For now, The Waiting Room is a university project – but Mosope is having big plans for his “baby”. Hope to hear her soon in magazine industry!

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Grace & Thorn

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Grace & Thorn is London’s most daring and imaginative flower shop. Just look at these animal heads & mini-dinosaur sculptures that have those cool succulents and airplants placed inside! Isn’t this a great idea? My favourite is the giraffe one. An absolute Tuesday LOVE.

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The Sacred Ritual of Art

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Brazilian artist Ernesto Neto has joined forces with shamen, artists and plant masters from the Huni Kuin, an indigenous tribe from Peru and Brazil for the Aru Kuxipa exhibition at Thyssen-Bornemisza Art Contemporary in Vienna. The result is a ethereal  “site of healing”, that lets audience discover the lives and spiritual practices of a smal group, over 8000 kilometres away from their lands. Neto, one of Brazil’s leading contemporary artists, is known for his huge installations of “amorphous“, pod-like hanging sculptures, or “fabric stalactites”, as he calls them. Soft and made of polyester filled with rice or sand, his work is playful and sensual, his pieces invites viewers to touch, lie on, and even smell the work. “The Huni Kuin had to create a new culture because they were previously forbidden to exercise it – the rituals, dancing, singing, speaking in their own languages“. Now, their culture is alive in the heart of Vienna.

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HC – Great Beauty. Valentino AW15

In the heart of Rome, the Italian house of Valentino presented its haute couture collection which just showed us, that this specific season is all about eponymous splendour. In 1960, Valentino Garavani founded his brand in the eternal city – now, its a label which can be called a fashion empire. But what’s most interesting in this collection is the fact that the creative directors, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli, had it presented in Valentino’s hometown and not as usual, in Paris. The venue of the fashion show was bulit on Piazza Mignanelli – the place where Valentino himself staged his shows in the past.

The colour of black is ususally misunderstood. But in reality, black is poetic, elusive and mysterious. These words precisely describe this collection for AW15.  “Rome is just a little bit noir, a little sinister” said Pierpaolo before the show, giving us the idea behind the city and the collection’s connection.  Leather flowers trellised a sheer tulle cape, while minuscule beads added character to a gladiator minidress. And the repeating arch motif on a floor-sweeping, wool and velvet cape? A treasure. This is one of these collections you are going to remember for a long time.

   

  

  

 

Jean Paul Gaultier at Grand Palais

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Nicknamed “the enfant terrible of fashion” by the press since his first shows in the 70’s, Jean Paul Gaultier is undoubtedly one of the most important and avant-garde fashion designers of recent decades. Made between 1971 and 2015, the examples of his bold creativity have for the most part never been on public display like now at Grand Palais in Paris. His couture and ready-to-wear which always seemed to be different, very early caught on concerns and challenges of a multicultural society, playfully imposing aesthetic codes. More than any other couturier, this exhibition expresses his humanity. The whole event is divided into few “periods” of his career in fashion. The Odyssey refers to what might be named the “founding myths” of Paul’s universe – mariner chic and his signature stripes, mermaids and long sea voyages. Then, Gaultier had his vision of punk, but in a cancan version. Fascinated by the Paris of Belle Epoque, Toulouse Lautrec, the Moulin Rouge and Brassai, the couturier used to mix frivolous and flirty silhouettes with rebellious fashion outings and contoversy-causing way of dressing. From the beginning, the enfant terrible was attracted to unconventional beauties. Muses. Madonna, Kylie Minouge, Beth Ditto, Rossy De Palma and many more women and men who were full of “spark” gave Jean Paul Gaultier inspiration. Even the clothes he designed for Luc Besson’s film, Fifth Element, were designed by him because he felt close to the directors strong vision and imagination. I

n his collections, Gaultier questioned the concepts of gender, nudity and eroticism. While basing his ideas on those, Jean started to use textiles that weren’t used in couture before – latex, leather, fish net, harness and other fabrics that are associated with the word sexy. He offered hypersexualised clothing (like corset dresses) and evoked a new type of romance and fetishism in the world of fashion. In the last section of the exhibition, you can see the Urban Jungle – a fierce dose of colour and references to various ethnic groups. bullfighter bolero jackets, the shtreimel and long coats made of rabbits, gilets from Mongolia, geisha kimonos, flamenco skirts and African masks as the new bride alternative. And all of that modified with his long-time signatures – corset silhouettes and intense emphasis on details. Seeing all of these stages of Gaultier’s career seemed like a dream-come-true. And having a chance to observe and have a look at all those clothes, scenarios and extravagance felt quite insane, but great.

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