Issey Miyake Forever

The saddest news. Legendary Japanese fashion designer Issey Miyake has died from liver cancer at the age of 84. The Hiroshima-born, Tokyo-based creative icon – who launched his namesake label in New York in 1970 – was famed for his innovative and technological approach to fashion design, which married precise, industrial techniques with poeticism. His garments were beloved by members of the creative industries, viewed often as the unofficial uniform of architects and graphic designers. Miyake, who cut his teeth in the ateliers of Guy Laroche and Hubert de Givenchy, was most famous for his revolutionary approach to fabric design. In the ’90s, he showcased his Pleats Please line, comprised of crease-free, shape-retaining garments creating using a heated pleating machine. He also debuted his APOC, or A Piece of Cloth, concept: an edit of machine-made garments using a knit fabric that was pre-fused with clothing patterns. He was a pioneer of the art-fashion collaboration, and worked with a number of artists, including Nobuyoshi Araki, on guest-designed collections. Today, Miyake’s signature fragrance, L’Eau D’Issey, is still considered an olfactory icon. After years creating breathtaking designs on the runway, Miyake stepped back from the fashion industry in 1997. Today, the brands that exist as part of his namesake group are still steeped in innovation and experimentation, debuting game-changing garment-making techniques each season. The power of Miyake’s utterly precise and architectural approach to design is that it simultaneously imbues its wearer with lightness and joy.

Je Ne Sais Quoi. Officine Générale SS23

In the courtyard of Hotel de Soubise, Officine Générale‘s spring-summer 2023 looks came out languidly, arranged in color stories that shifted slowly across the cobbles in the waning evening sunshine. This was the brand’s 10th anniversary show, and yet so many people discover it just now. It was also one of those shows where you end up playing fantasy personal shopping, because this was less an impactful fashion pop song than carefully conducted piece of apparel mood music. After this gentle show had come to its end, founder Pierre Mahéo emerged to deserved applause. Backstage, the designer pointed out that around 80% of sales are currently outside France, and was refreshingly pragmatic about the formula he’s found. He said: “I think there is an evolution in what we show today in terms of styling, and in terms of putting things together, but the base is the fit, the cut, and the fabrics… The formula is being fair by offering good material at a very decent price, manufactured in Portugal and Italy.” You can’t argue with that. Pretty much, this collection is perfect. Just take a look at all these great cotton knits, chino pants, effortless tailoring, quilted marine jackets and timeless trench coats.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

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