Fashion

Pulpy. Dries Van Noten SS27

| Design & Culture by Ed

I know everybody loved Julian Klausner’s latest effort at Dries Van Noten, but I’m not entirely sold on it. On paper, it looks solid. But on second glance, its pulpiness starts to feel dangerously Prada-ish, or even Marni-ish – specifically the Consuelo Castiglioni era, with a few tinges of Francesco Risso thrown in.

Klausner can’t be a forever A+ student of Papa Dries’s school, and he’s very welcome to step outside that particular comfort zone – one that Dries Van Noten clients clearly adore and can’t seem to get enough of. But somehow, the spring-summer 2027 lady-like turn towards the 1950s didn’t quite click for me. Neither did the extremely layered styling, which often concealed the actual clothes rather than allowing them to speak for themselves.

There’s nothing wrong with Klausner wanting to move on. In fact, he probably should. I’m just not sure this particular detour has found its destination yet.

ED’s SELECTION:


Dries Van Noten Belted Pleated Linen-blend Jacquard Skirt



Dries Van Noten Ripa Giant Egg Printed Satin Coat



Dries Van Noten Ruched Satin Mules



Dries Van Noten Mélange Grain De Poudre Blouse



Dries Van Noten Printed Twill Scarf

All collages by Edward Kanarecki.

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So Bad It’s Great. Valentino SS27

| Design & Culture by Ed

At first, I found Alessandro Michele’s latest Valentino collection so obnoxiously tacky that I was close to completely dismissing it. But then I went back to it. And again. And again. And I still can’t stop looking. I realised that, with all its va-va-voom, Michele is ferociously fighting the current status quo of fashion: the safer, the better. We are so indoctrinated with ideas of “good taste” that his collection feels like a much-needed danger – a slap on the wrist that shakes you up. The colours are gloriously pop and motley, the silhouettes delightfully old-school, and there’s something very, very enchanting about how profoundly un-modern this collection looks. In a fashion landscape obsessed with restraint, Michele is making a case for excess, awkwardness and sheer visual pleasure. It’s so bad, it’s great.

ED’s SELECTION:


Valentino Garavani Bow-detailed Gathered Satin-trimmed Wool-crepe Jacket



Valentino Garavani Printed Lace-trimmed Cotton T-shirt



Valentino Garavani Bowow 45 Bow-embellished Velvet Pumps



Valentino. A Grand Italian Epic by Taschen



Valentino Garavani Gold-tone, Crystal, Faux Pearl And Resin Earrings



Valentino Garavani Embellished Satin-trimmed Cropped Cotton-blend Velvet Peplum Top

All collages by Edward Kanarecki.

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School. Miu Miu SS27

| Design & Culture by Ed

A year ago, Miuccia Prada sent aprons down the Miu Miu runway – blue, floral, not unlike the ones worn by Bożena at my favourite greengrocer. As usual with Prada, her fascination with the supposedly mundane first caused confusion, then collective obsession. The apron became less a fashion statement than a political one. For spring-summer 2027, Prada takes us somewhere else entirely: from the market to the schoolyard. More specifically, the gym. READ MY FULL REVIEW HERE.

ED’s SELECTION:


Miu Miu Leather Slingback Mules



Miu Miu Logo-Knit Silk Sock

Miu Miu Diagonal Rib Silk Skirt

Miu Miu Contrast-Striped Cotton-Blend Polo Shirt

Miu Miu Embellished Satin Slide Sandals

All collages by Edward Kanarecki.

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