I know everybody loved Julian Klausner’s latest effort at Dries Van Noten, but I’m not entirely sold on it. On paper, it looks solid. But on second glance, its pulpiness starts to feel dangerously Prada-ish, or even Marni-ish – specifically the Consuelo Castiglioni era, with a few tinges of Francesco Risso thrown in.
Klausner can’t be a forever A+ student of Papa Dries’s school, and he’s very welcome to step outside that particular comfort zone – one that Dries Van Noten clients clearly adore and can’t seem to get enough of. But somehow, the spring-summer 2027 lady-like turn towards the 1950s didn’t quite click for me. Neither did the extremely layered styling, which often concealed the actual clothes rather than allowing them to speak for themselves.
There’s nothing wrong with Klausner wanting to move on. In fact, he probably should. I’m just not sure this particular detour has found its destination yet.
ED’s SELECTION:
Dries Van Noten Belted Pleated Linen-blend Jacquard Skirt
Dries Van Noten Ripa Giant Egg Printed Satin Coat
Dries Van Noten Ruched Satin Mules
Dries Van Noten Mélange Grain De Poudre Blouse
Dries Van Noten Printed Twill Scarf
All collages by Edward Kanarecki.
Don’t forget to follow Design & Culture by Ed on Instagram.
Hey, did you know about my newsletter – Ed’s Dispatch? Click here to subscribe.
