Murder In The English Country. Simone Rocha SS27

September 20, 2026 | Design & Culture by Ed

Simone Rocha’s collection immediately took me back to the now-vintage “Poirot” series starring David Suchet – but also to “Miss Marple“, played by Geraldine McEwan. Whenever there was a bloody murder in one of those English country houses, the Agatha Christie detective would arrive at the crime scene, and somehow all the house guests would be dressed to the nines. The women – both the suspected murderers and those who seemed completely innocent – looked as if they might be ready for a ball at any moment.

For spring-summer 2027, Rocha is in a similar soirée mood, with echoes of interwar elegance. Yet alongside rosette-shaped gowns, organza boas and dropped-waist dresses, there were sturdier leathers and flashes of skin that would have been scandalous in the aforementioned society. At times, Simone returned to her eternal Rei Kawakubo obsession via Cristóbal Balenciaga-esque matryoshka hoods (very matriarchy). But the designer’s real strength lies in those barely-there, billowy dresses that are unmistakably hers. Now, who’s the killer?

ED’s SELECTION:

Simone Rocha Bow-detailed Gathered Taffeta Blouse

Simone Rocha Floral Lace Embroidered Leather Slip-ons

Simone Rocha Layered Pleated Silk-organza Midi Skirt

Simone Rocha Silver-tone Crystal Necklace

Simone Rocha Ruffled Floral-print Pointelle-knit Cotton-jersey Leggings

Simone Rocha Lace-up Merino Wool-blend Scarf

Simone Rocha Bow-embellished Embroidered Organza Midi Dress

The Doll. A Letter SS27

September 20, 2026 | Design & Culture by Ed

I love the honesty, sincerity, and, above all, playfulness of A Letter’s clothes. The London-based label, founded by Matt Empringham and Freddy Coombes, makes seemingly “normal” clothes that always hide a weird little tweak or twist. Their dresses look as if they’ve been taken straight out of a vintage dollhouse, yet the radically minimal silhouettes and clean lines keep them from becoming saccharine. Instead, they’re elegant – elegantly odd.

The shapes are subtly inflated, while the lengths are cut as if they’re just a few centimeters too high. There’s also a quietly fetishistic undertone hiding in the seams – blink, and you might miss the transparent PVC back of a 1950s-inspired dress. Yet Empringham and Coombes never shock simply for the sake of shock. Their fashion isn’t interested in Instagram dressing. It’s for girls who dare to be themselves, with A Letter acting almost like a little sexy envelope they can choose to dress themselves up in. Brands like this are what make London Fashion Week worth paying attention to.

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Legacy. JW Anderson SS27

June 18, 2026 | Design & Culture by Ed

JW Anderson opens the spring-summer 2027 season with a cast brimming with character and charisma – while keeping the clothes firmly in familiar territory. More than a year ago, Jonathan Anderson very deliberately repositioned his London-based namesake label, a move that made perfect sense once his biggest job shifted to Paris at Dior. Gone are the runway spectacles; in their place come carefully crafted lookbooks starring friends of the brand, dressed in the signatures you can find year-round in JW Anderson’s meticulously curated boutiques. Craft – unmistakably British craft – remains the central pillar. At this rate, the label could soon become the new Barbour or even Burberry, albeit with a sharper sense of humor and considerably cooler company. In other words: the next great British brand. Donegal wool knits bloom with wildflowers and ferns, while the house’s signature knitwear references the image of a traditional Irish cottage. The ever-present squirrel motif traces its origins to a Scottish Fair Isle pattern from Sanquhar, and a striking red coat with a matching scarf emerges from a collaboration with Johnstons of Elgin (arguably the source of the finest cashmere in the world – sorry, Italians!). Throughout the collection, Anderson playfully weaves together folk textiles, domestic objects, and rural craftsmanship, recontextualising them through a joyful cast that includes Dree Hemingway, Isaac Cole Powell, Camille B. Waddington, Sophie Okonedo, and more than a touch of flamboyant mischief.

ED’s SELECTION:

JW Anderson Layered Wool And Cashmere-blend Cardigan

JW Anderson Cauliflower Crocheted Cotton Bag Charm

JW Anderson Shearling-lined Suede Ankle Boots

JW Anderson Wool-twill Blazer

JW Anderson Tie-detailed Crinkled-silk Midi Dress

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Phoebe Philo Collection E

March 20, 2026 | Design & Culture by Ed

I love it when an unassuming Thursday turns into a revelation – because Phoebe Philo drops her latest lookbook with no further ado. Collection E – the autumn-winter 2026 offering, arriving in June- is a testament to Philo’s profound, instinctive understanding of women: nothing superfluous, no noise, no strings attached.

She has the final word as the endless fashion month of shows and presentations wrapped last week – and the last laugh, too. While other designers are still guessing (and second-guessing) contemporary women and their needs, Philo simply delivers: a collection so concise and assured you can rely on it without a shade of doubt. READ MY FULL REVIEW HERE.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Not Enough. Burberry AW26

February 25, 2026February 24, 2026 | Design & Culture by Ed

Nobody captured London’s current predicament more vividly than Daniel Lee at Burberry. With this duo, it’s either a hit or a miss. This season, unfortunately, it was the latter, proving that as the seasons pass, Burberry is no longer capable of sparking emotion. There is nothing worse than a show that leaves you indifferent – it might as well have been an email. READ MY FULL REVIEW HERE.