Knitted Needs. Pringle of Scotland AW17

February 21, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Fran Stringer, the creative director of Pringle of Scotland, nails it with every season. The designer has found the perfect balance between the brand’s knit legacy and the wardrobe of a contemporary woman, through incorporating top-notch craftsmanship and timeless silhouettes. Her pre-fall collection was a statement about long, knitted dresses, while for autumn-winter 2017 she continues to experiment with this signature. First looks were the flowing, total-black ensembles, while the last (worn by Adwoa Aboah, above) went crazy floral. If you’re already thinking about buying this ready-to-flatter investment piece – Pringle is the go-to brand.

Ageless. Simone Rocha AW17

February 20, 2017February 20, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

For her autumn-winter 2017 fashion show, Simone Rocha wanted to clearly cater the fact that her clientelle spans from 20-something girls to 80-year old dames. As she told Sarah Mower of Vogue, “I’ve been reflecting on who I am. I’ve been building this identity, and I want it to be inclusive, for mothers, daughters, and granddaughters.” That’s why she tapped Jan de Villeneuve, Benedetta Barzini, Cecilia Chancellor, Adwoa Aboah and Jaimie Bochert to walk the show – model stars of both, the 60s and 2017. The effect? One of the biggest statements of the season: age really is just a number for fashion. Dress however you want, regardless of your age. The clothes were classic Rocha, tough – fluffy fur inserts and accessories, spacey coats, heavily embellished floral dresses, sheer fabrics. And I’m fine with that, because they look brilliant, as usual.

Focused. JW Anderson AW17

February 19, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Jonathan Anderson‘s collections at his namesake label are all about random ideas matched together in the most unpredictable ways – once it’s a medieval dress in tie-dye, then an over-sized crotchet knit. This season I haven’t felt that experimental spark, which makes J.W. Anderson so peculiarly elusive. Maybe that was the aim? Even though some of the skirts had ostrich feather inserts, while the jackets were over-small, Anderson’s autumn-winter 2017 wasn’t that impressive as usual. It rather felt like a season off; a fur coat, easy everyday dresses, floral motifs.

Ladies Who Brunch. Molly Goddard AW17

February 19, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Molly Goddard‘s signature tulle dresses are London’s favourite. And that’s already a well-known, unofficially acknowledged fact. Her autumn-winter 2017 collection, however, differed from the last seasons. While last time Molly staged an acid-splashed rave party, yesterday’s show venue was focused on a long, Alice from The Wonderland kind of table. Goddard’s bruch was served – after the models walked around the runway, they took a sit and sipped red wine. Of course, wearing layers of blue, green and pink tulle.Whether voluminous, or more day-to-day, Goddard’s woman is a contemporary princess, who walks down the street as if it was royal ball. For those who prefer something more conventional, the designer introduced a range of boldly coloured pants, striped knits and simpler, floral dresses from a stretchy fabric. But, really, take the tulle, lady!

Men’s – Seven Sisters Bankers. Martine Rose AW17

January 11, 2017January 24, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Martine Rose took London’s fashion scene to an indoor market in Seven Sisters, presenting her first runway collection, with nail salons and vegetable stalls in the background. Martine’s day-to-day job is consultancy at Balenciaga under Demna Gvasalia, but for her eponymous menswear line, she takes a fresh look at clothing essentials. For autumn-winter 2017, the daring designer explored different, quite unusual for the fashion industry male characters – the banker, the bus driver, the office worker to name just a few. People, who rather don’t care about fashion, and their unawareness of how they look lead Rose to reinterpreting tailored jackets, dresscode-wise shirts and voluminous suit trousers. With their hands in pockets, the models seemed to come straight from a some kind of subverted reality. Minutes after the show, Martine told Dazed & Confused that her idea was focused on “polished, mid-town, almost American Psycho-style bankers”. Instead of taking her aesthetically-forward bank boys to a CBD location, she took another path. “I’ve been in Tottenham for ten years, so it was time to do something here – I wanted people to come to the market to see how amazing it is. But I really enjoy when things are slightly off – so I wanted to have this weird show inside it.”