No-Nonsense. Talia Byre AW25

February 26, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

If you’re looking for an absolutely great emerging brand in London, here’s a clue: it’s Talia Byre and her no-nonsense take on what IRL women want. Stunningly cut shirts that borrowed from traditional menswear silhouettes (in checks and stripes); a nylon skirt with girlish sectioned pleats; charming, wool knitwear in vibrant shades of canary-yellow and sweet-lilac. What’s not to love?

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
Don’t forget to follow Design & Culture by Ed on Instagram!

Hey, did you know about my newsletter – Ed’s Dispatch? Click here to subscribe!

Raw Femininity. Simone Rocha AW25

February 26, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

Simone Rocha channeled a tougher, rawer perspective on femininity, one close to her – and her 15 year old brand’s – heart. Faux-fur coats were sliced to ribbons halfway up from their hemlines, a gesture repeated across the collection, giving an animalistic, primary touch (and not-so-obvious sensuality). Jackets and skirts in Rocha’s tinsel-strafed bouclé tweed were also given the shredder treatment. The designer combined harnessing with lingerie, ruffles with chains, creating garments beaming with attitude.

That attitude was embodied by a cast of non-models, like the sensational actress Fiona Shaw who wore a duchesse-satin black gown. Rocha has been inviting characters of different walks of life to her runways for years; Burberry was certainly inspired this season by her always-working strategy of making clothes feel truly real.

ED’s SELECTION:

Simone Rocha Bow-embellished Faux-fur Pumps

Simone Rocha Crystal-embellished Organza Midi Dress

Simone Rocha Crystal-embellished Tulle Midi Dress

Simone Rocha Cropped Bow-embellished Open-knit Mohair-blend Cardigan

Simone Rocha Crystal-embellished Silver-tone Hair Clip

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
Don’t forget to follow Design & Culture by Ed on Instagram!

Hey, did you know about my newsletter – Ed’s Dispatch? Click here to subscribe!

Dolls. Conner Ives AW25

February 25, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

This one’s for all the dolls. Conner Ives presented his ultra-glamorous offering of eveningwear at Savoy’s Beaufort Bar, and one can easily imagine women strutting and striding in those fur-tripped numbers or Art Deco-ish piano-dresses during the night. The plum number with deep, plunging neckline was accessorized with fringe-y headwear made out of bottle caps, making it all feel not overly serious. That’s exactly Conner Ives’ sense of style: tongue-in-cheek-chic. The line-up emanated with a certain whimsy-but-cool, sexy-but-with-a-twist femininity, reminiscing Stella McCartney’s days at Chloé. Brits know how to have fun.

ED’s SELECTION:

Conner Ives Tie-neck Appliquéd Stretch-micro Modal Jersey Tank

Conner Ives Paneled Printed Recycled Cotton-jersey Dress

Conner Ives Appliquéd Printed Cotton-jersey T-shirt

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
Don’t forget to follow Design & Culture by Ed on Instagram!

Hey, did you know about my newsletter – Ed’s Dispatch? Click here to subscribe!

British Classics. S.S. Daley AW25

February 23, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

Steven Stokey-Daley served us the great, British classics, revisited and refreshed, with good humour. Cropped trenches (Burberry could take notes). Cool pea-coats. Tailored bermudas. Full-skirts in floral prints worn with work-jackets (the look gave Frazzled English Woman energy!). And then there was Marianne Faithfull. A rendition of frilly blouse she was famously photographed wearing in the late 1960s was on the runway. A lovely chunky knit “Stay Faithfull To Marianne” was there, too. The designer was quick to make it clear he hadn’t jumped on the bandwagon of her recent passing. “Maggie Smith, Kate Bush, and Marianne Faithfull have been the three women who’ve always meant so much to me,” he said. S.S. Daley reminds us than we need London Fashion Week, even if it’s in (hopefully temporary) shambles.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
Don’t forget to follow Design & Culture by Ed on Instagram!

Hey, did you know about my newsletter – Ed’s Dispatch? Click here to subscribe!

Venus In Chaos. Dilara Findikoglu AW25

February 23, 2025February 23, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

Dilara Findikoglu fired up London Fashion Week with her outing at Slimelight, the longest-running Goth nightclub in town. Lead by Lara Stone, a pack of ferociously badass women, clad in hyper-corsetry and second-skin chiffon body stockings stalked through the dark space, utterly entrancing the viewers. Entitled “Venus in Chaos”, the collection was “a divine feminine mutiny“, as the designer summed up in her press-notes. Botticelli-goth hair, a bustier covered with hundreds of shells, red velvet jackets (un)finished with punk-ish safety pins, unexpected cuts in the most “risky” places, tattered hems and ripped lace: all that created an extreme impression of total liberation from societal norms – and the pleasure of sexual self-possession. It’s easy to compare Dilara’s subversive work to John Galliano or Alexander McQueen’s, aesthetics-wise, but what makes her differ is her powerful female gaze that truly makes you believe these otherworldly women are here to break the patriarchal system.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
Don’t forget to follow Design & Culture by Ed on Instagram!

Hey, did you know about my newsletter – Ed’s Dispatch? Click here to subscribe!