“I don’t pop molly, I rock Tom Ford” is on Jay-Z’s tune that is simply titled Tom Ford. The master of sexy clothing for women have presented his glamorous and genius collection for AW14… mostly in black & red. With beautiul models like Stella Tennant, the maxi gowns, sleek dresses, fur coats and Geoffrey Beene isnpired sequin blouses are made not only for a gala moment- it’s made for everyday use. And this is certainly not Tom Ford, which designed heels higher than anybody else. But the collection, which is totally sewn on Beyonce, is impressive… and fun.
London
Baroque. Erdem AW14
Only Erdem Moralioglu can make brocade trousers in bordeaux colour look so light and girlie. The inspiration for Erdem’s AW14 tumbled out on the runway: here, botanical prints; there, the necklines found in Velasquez paintings. As the designer said, he wanted to bring all the ideas together, into one show, unfinished. And that was a good move- the clothes felt very glorious, but at the same time not full of pretence, noting the amount of dark brocade and gold elements. Definitely, this is one of the best collections to date from this season’s London Fashion Week.
Craft. Burberry AW14
What a lovely collection was that… it was like a 5 o’clock tea. Like a British picnic in Kensington Gardens. Like… Burberry. Every item in the Burberry’s Monday show was somehow painted- from the bags to shaved coats and flawless 70’s dresses. That handmade work was continued to be used on the shoes and even the throws that had models initials on the last looks. It was a romantic vision of nature and flowers in English country garden. The clothes were gentle and loose… And lets just note who stole the model moment this time: Edie Campbell, Suki Waterhouse, Cara Delevigne and Jourdan Dunn!
Lively. Roksanda Ilincic AW14
Roksanda Ilincic to a surprise of mine, created a great collection. Really. The show’s colorful, popping patchworks whether it was inserts in long felt skirts or the clear plastic squares that decorated dresses to close the show. Then a added metallic, wide belts for an industrial feel, and a lovely geometrical dress with beautiful coat was created. The deconstructed silhouettes, bright with color blocking had an artistic flair, not least when furs appeared on the runway in a radiant version. With roots in evening wear and artsy attitude- Ilincic outstood herself for this season.
Commerce Dirt. Christopher Kane AW14
The sad thing happened. Christopher Kane got commercial. But this had to happen since he belongs now to Kering Group. However, there were still little doses of shock on this Monday show- mink cuddling up with shiny, wet looking nylon, and shoes that channeled factory worker chic (look at the protective covers!). Mr. Kane’s most interesting and fresh elaboration was layers of organza flipping over the front of a dress, mimicking book pages turning, as if he had time to read one. But the biggest new arrivals were the bags- so called leather goods. They were tiny, black and made out of leather… with some little protective covers too. Although the collection is pretty nice- it feels straight away that Chris run out of breath this season.
Design & Culture by Ed 