Not Your Man Yet. Givenchy SS27

July 2, 2026 | Design & Culture by Ed

Sarah Burton‘s menswear debut for Givenchy proves that, in the end, it’s all about how clothes are photographed. Through Juergen Teller’s lens, Don McCullin, Don Letts, and Danny Fox make the collection feel believable and genuinely cool. But the moment you switch to the studio-shot lookbook starring professional (and very young) models, you’re left with a collection that lacks a clear narrative. Yes, the lavishly embroidered MA-1 jackets are stunning. The hourglass-tailored suits are beautiful too. But then come the tracksuits, rugby shirts, florals, and sneakers, which make the overall picture feel scattered rather than cohesive. It’s not as if Givenchy menswear lacks a legacy – we’ve had Ozwald Boateng and, of course, Riccardo Tisci, who turned the line into a genuine commercial force. But after years of neglect and falling into irrelevance, Burton’s debut doesn’t quite give men a compelling reason to drop everything and return to the brand. Hopefully time will heal that wound.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Sumptuous. Giorgio Armani SS27

July 1, 2026 | Design & Culture by Ed

There’s been a lot of chatter and speculation about who will eventually take over Giorgio Armani. As if Leo Dell’Orco, the late master’s longtime right-hand man, weren’t already doing a brilliant job. His menswear is sumptuously sublime – like the perfect vitello tonnato, a plate of artichoke hearts, and an espresso martini – and it breathes pure Armani DNA. READ MY FULL REVIEW HERE.

ED’s SELECTION:

Giorgio Armani Solid Seersucker Sport Shirt

Giorgio Armani Herringbone Cashmere and Wool Sport Coat

Giorgio Armani Cotton and Silk Crewneck Sweater

Giorgio Armani Dyed Satin Oversized Button-Down Shirt with Pocket

Giorgio Armani Cotton and Lyocell Straight-Leg Pleated Trousers

Giorgio Armani Pleated Bib Tuxedo Shirt

Giorgio Armani 5-Pocket Stretch Cotton Pants

The Island. ERL SS27

June 30, 2026 | Design & Culture by Ed

Eli Russell Linnetz – who not long ago curated a capsule collection for Armani, reissuing some of Giorgio’s greatest hits from the 1970s and 1980s – is another menswear designer who deserves all the flowers. This season, the Venice Beach-based creative returns with a collection-script titled The Island, inspired by the deeply personal experience of staying in a stranger’s home and slowly getting to know the people who lived there.

The vibe is hyper-preppy, but what sets it apart from Ralph Lauren is ERL’s proudly loud, unapologetically queer flamboyance. READ MY FULL REVIEW HERE.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Patina. Magliano SS27

June 29, 2026 | Design & Culture by Ed

There’s a sense of distressed, dirty chic about Magliano. In a way, patina was Luca Magliano’s guiding obsession for spring-summer 2027 – “the patina of an old picture, of memory.” The garments carry a distinct 1970s flavor; they feel as if they’ve absorbed cigarette smoke and spilled liquor, as if they were worn all night in some old-school club you might still stumble upon on the outskirts of Rome or Milan (or in any of those smaller Italian towns where time moves differently).

The Milan-based designer – now showing in Paris – approaches classic menswear through a queer lens, filtered with irony and just the right amount of distance. A cheetah-print top paired with matching jeans, an ill-fitting four-button suit jacket that feels lifted from another era, a thrifted foulard worn like a sarong, an aged suit collapsing slightly at the shoulders – all of it carries nostalgia with a flicker of something sharper, almost rageful beneath the surface. Wink, wink.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Risk, Style, Sincerity. Celine SS27

June 29, 2026 | Design & Culture by Ed

Tough & Tender
Soft and strong
Packing light
Making do with a few great things. CUSTOMIZING.
Enjoying what we do in the studio, and desiring it ourselves, all of it, the clothes and the characters.
Panache. And being very unaware of having it.
Music and what music can FEEL like.
Listening
Possibility
Worlds opening up, even small ones, not closing. Movement.
Heirlooms and good time shirts
Authenticity and dress-up. Manners/propriety and practicality. And the opposite.
Being yourself, being on your own tip
Taking the time to return to things
GUT, and having GUTS
RISK
STYLE
SINCERITY
Free-styling
Summer is a chance to see places you’ve never seen,
or go back to places you’ve been going your whole life.
Spending as much time as you can outside.
Letting Loose.
Building toward something bigger. Something with legs, and roots.

– Michael Rider

Celine won the menswear season. Michael Rider “reminds us that the devil is in the details, but he also makes a compelling case for playing with what’s already in your wardrobe. Nobody else owns your exact combination of clothes and accessories. Your wardrobe is your DNA. The way you get dressed is your signature.” READ MY FULL REVIEW HERE.