Men’s

Risk, Style, Sincerity. Celine SS27

| Design & Culture by Ed

Tough & Tender
Soft and strong
Packing light
Making do with a few great things. CUSTOMIZING.
Enjoying what we do in the studio, and desiring it ourselves, all of it, the clothes and the characters.
Panache. And being very unaware of having it.
Music and what music can FEEL like.
Listening
Possibility
Worlds opening up, even small ones, not closing. Movement.
Heirlooms and good time shirts
Authenticity and dress-up. Manners/propriety and practicality. And the opposite.
Being yourself, being on your own tip
Taking the time to return to things
GUT, and having GUTS
RISK
STYLE
SINCERITY
Free-styling
Summer is a chance to see places you’ve never seen,
or go back to places you’ve been going your whole life.
Spending as much time as you can outside.
Letting Loose.
Building toward something bigger. Something with legs, and roots.

– Michael Rider

Celine won the menswear season. Michael Rider “reminds us that the devil is in the details, but he also makes a compelling case for playing with what’s already in your wardrobe. Nobody else owns your exact combination of clothes and accessories. Your wardrobe is your DNA. The way you get dressed is your signature.” READ MY FULL REVIEW HERE.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Familiar. Dries Van Noten SS27

| Design & Culture by Ed

There’s a sense of familiarity, reality, and lightness to what Julian Klausner is doing at Dries Van Noten. A devoted student of Papa Dries, he makes the house’s blend of meticulous embroidery and erotically charged, slightly off-kilter – yet never overly weird – elegance feel completely instinctive, almost on auto-pilot. And that’s very much to his advantage: his work should feel like coming home for Dries devotees. READ MY FULL REVIEW HERE.

ED’s SELECTION:


Dries Van Noten Men’s Destin Mixed Leather Retro Sneakers



Dries Van Noten Men’s Striped Viscose-Blend Shirt



Dries Van Nioten Men’s Suede and Leather Duffel Crossbody Bag



Dries Van Noten Men’s Pine Straight-Fit Flocked Denim Jeans



Dries Van Noten Men’s Overdyed Cupro-Cotton Shirt

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Imperfectly Perfect. Soshiotsuki SS27

| Design & Culture by Ed

Soshiotsuki‘s spring-summer 2027 collection is remarkably beautiful. It also proves that Soshi Otsuki‘s repertoire extends far beyond his now-signature Japan Bubble Era-inspired tailoring. As the designer put it, “When I was young I never had a chance to go abroad and travel in European style. The collection is like a nostalgia for a memory I don’t have.” That imagined nostalgia – of a strict, office-bound father escaping to a resort somewhere in Italy – gave rise to what Otsuki described as “an intentionally undone mood.”

That sense of effortless imperfection is achieved through incredibly precise – and witty – construction. Checked shirts come with trompe l’œil patterned ties. Hidden jetted pockets tucked beneath jacket lapels let you carry your phone without disturbing the silhouette. Apparently crumpled, unpressed lapels and shirt collars are, in fact, held in place by discreet metallic fixtures. Nothing is accidental. It’s just pure genius.

Reportedly, it’s Dario Vitale who’s heading to Emporio Armani, and I love that rumored appointment. But now I’d really like to see Soshi Otsuki interact with the Giorgio Armani line, because he seems absolutely made for that job.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Party Flaneur. Dior SS27

| Design & Culture by Ed

There’s a sense of undone-ness to Jonathan Anderson’s menswear method for Dior that I really like, even if it occasionally makes his vision for the house seem a little erratic. The image of an aristocratic kid in a pyjama suit and torn denim, stumbling back to his inherited château after a long, very fun night, ripping the wire out of a speaker and plugging his phone into it (very Rianne Van Rompaey opening the Louis Vuitton show in Palm Springs… a niche reference, I know) just to keep the party going, is strangely appealing. READ MY FULL REVIEW HERE.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Skinny. Prada SS27

| Design & Culture by Ed

Prada’s latest collection left me feeling a bit unnerved. It wasn’t that Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons’s offering was “bad” – honestly, can they ever get it wrong? – but the collection’s near-fixation on extreme skinniness felt genuinely discomforting. I’m an XL; I’m never, ever fitting into those cropped denim jackets or hyper-slim trousers. But this isn’t about me – it’s about the message the collection sends. If you don’t possess the frame of an adolescent, forget about being invited to this party.

While I can perhaps forgive the romanticization – and even the fetishization – of youth in, say, Hedi Slimane’s work, I hold Prada to a higher standard. Prada is so much more than that. Where is the nuance? READ MY FULL REVIEW HERE.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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