Men’s – Workwear. Yohji Yamamoto AW17

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Yohji Yamamoto wanted to recall that “basic aspect of the labor” – he referred to all the people in the background, who help him construct his exquisite garments. That’s a fact – real clothing can’t be made without human hands, you need to use your fingers to understand the texture; your body, to see how the piece looks on a living and breathing person. Having all that in mind, seeing Yamamoto’s menswear was a true experience. A man’s suit appeared in a number of different colours and fabrics, while elegant reversible coats, masculine vests and romantic capes were hand-painted with ‘working man’ slogans. There’s no fuss about Yohji’ collection – and that’s why I might adore them so much, always.

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Men’s – Post Industrial. Loewe AW17

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It’s unbelievable, how Jonathan Anderson revamped Loewe. Three years ago, the Spanish brand was rather a yawn. Now, whether it’s a collection, presentation or cultural project, the designer builds a totally new, diverse language at the brand. His autumn-winter 2017 collection for men is even more twisted than usual. Anderson described this pack of wearable oddities as “a youthful eclecticism, something post-industrial.” Shearling boots and ripped tartan pants; ‘dilapidated’ bags and fluffy earrings; leather aprons and fleecy cardigans. Biker hats, the season’s must-have, are here, giving the scout-boy look. The look-book was photographed in a former steam engine, while Anderson’s new-season aesthetic has a revolutionary-like attitude. Is fashion going proletariat? That would be quite an oxymoron, with all the price tags. But…

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Men’s – Napoleon. Y/Project AW17

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What happens when hip-hop star’s clothes land in Napoleon I’s wardrobe? Or Henry VIII  takes style tips from Kanye? Glenn Martens, the designer behind Y/Project, is here to envision those impossible scenarios. Fusing royalty with streetwear, the Belgian designer styled distorted denim jackets with aristocratic, scarlet velvet. Every high-profile rapper has his / her merch outside the concert, selling everything from t-shirts to scarves: Martens reinterpreted the latter, putting faces of famous royals on each of them. Also, the floor-sweeping corduroy coats will make any entrance grand.

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Men’s – Supreme. Louis Vuitton AW17

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Ever wondered how to make everyone look at you in the fashion industry? The answer is as easy as that – invite Supreme to collaborate on your collection. Kim Jones precisely did this for his autumn-winter 2017 collection for Louis Vuitton, tapping the cult, New York-based brand, which keeps today’s youth drooling. Although I know I should be a fan of Supreme – perfectly fitting into the age target of this streetwear giant – I’m not. I just don’t get ecstatic about seeing a white-on-red logo on a sweatshirt or backpack. But the way Jones introduced Supreme to Louis Vuitton is intriguing. Ignoring the huge gap between ‘luxury ‘ and ‘street’, the designer wasn’t afraid to pull off a crocodile leather aviator jacket with Sup hand-bag or pendant. Moreover, he took a new spin on the monogram print, mashing up LV with SUPREME. In terms of the clothes, Kim didn’t dissapoint. Slouchy styling, brilliant layering – male version of Parisian chic is here, featuring a skate-board and biker hat.

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Men’s – Bundle Up. Rick Owens AW17

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I thought, ‘God, I’m getting really earnest,’Rick Owens explained Dazed & Confused backstage of his autumn-winter 2017 collection. “Instead of whining so much, it has to be about rejecting oppressive, turbulent times and defying it. When I look at the collection, it’s very much about bundling up, it’s about wrapping up. It’s like getting ready for turbulence.” This season, designers openly respond to the current political oppression, which is happening around the globe. From ‘peace scouts’ at Prada to defiant London-based designers, it’s about a modern-day armour. Owens takes part in the rebel, dressing his man in shelter gear: wrapped-around-body duvet jackets, voluminous pants and colossal puffa cocoons. We’re strong.

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