Men’s: Trend Report AW14

 

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Yohji Yamamoto

Boys, we are looking forward towards the new times of fashion! So arty, gloomy, grey and posh- the AW14 season is for all sorts of men. Here, look at the strong five trends that are going to rule in your fall wardrobe.

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They were moody, not sombre, said Haider Ackermann about his new season clothes that were all about his Victorian poets, floor length coats swaying through the room and Tchaikovsky chart topper. The fresh mood of men fashion is about dandy gloom that is romantic and attractive. Comme des Garcons had this wet hair look that reminded of gothic ghosts and Philip Lim had some neo-Romantism in it. Do you get that?

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Camel coat, camel jacket or a camel parka- whatever, Parisian men think of camel as men’s best-friend. It’s neutral, but looks perfect with sweatpants, leather over-sized pants or elegant trousers. I really want to steal Ami’s look, where the models wore camel with white Adidas and wool sweaters… maybe it’s slightly normcore, but you may still wear it as a cowboy like at Versace (see leather bag, crocodile gloves and fur covered motorcycle helmet)!

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Grey is beautiful, moody and human. There is nothing better than a luxe, comfortable track suit from Christophe Lemaire or Louis Vuitton. The razor-sharp relaxdness kills me! Every man shows his different shade of grey. So the question is, which one are you?

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Raf Simons designed a collection in collaboration with Sterling Ruby. He managed to connect two worlds, fashion and art, in men collection. And he nailed it. Just like my favourite Yohji Yamamoto with his manga themed leather garments! The contrasting prints, smart signs and colour splash is the perfect way to kill normcore (normal hardcore) and be the men of art (and fashion).

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This one is strange. And ugly in my opinion. But at the same time, takes men to a new dimension of uniformism- utilitarian vests Prada and Rick Owens; reconstructed and constructed coats at Maison Martin Margiela… this season brings more than excepted to men fashion. And which trend is in your type most?

Men’s: What’s Hot (11.5.14)

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There is a new change coming to Design & Culture by Ed… from now on, every Sunday we will have a What’s Hot  dedicated to men! The selection will be surely full of Public School, Adieu, Saint Laurent, Rag & Bone… and many more! So, here is the first one!

Men’s: Skinny. Saint Laurent AW14

Slide1-kopia 3Who could end men’s fashion month in such unique style? Only Hedi Slimane, that leads Saint Laurent to total grunge destruction. The AW14 collection is very… hard. Some pieces are very cool, and some more affordable for a rockstar! Take the green sequin suit; or the leopard printed bomber jacket. Or even these creepers ‘on fire. Hedi knows what he wants and moves into his direction- the rock’n’roll era, that inspires him so much. If my size would be XS and I would have such skinny legs as the models here, then I would definitely love everything. But while I am certainly not, then I don’t really feel the mood of the collection. However, from the crowd of elegant suites and coats, Slimane really catches my eye from the whole fashion week from Paris… See you for Haute Couture SS14!

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Men’s: Beast. Thom Browne AW14

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Thom Browne, the enfant terrible of New York have just presented his AW14 collection for men in Paris. In the grey forest full of wild animals, we met the man vs. beast fight- models wore highly tailored suits in abstract forms with bunny, elephant or deer masks, looking like creatures from fairy-tales. The collection was kept in misty grey colour, with lots of embroideries on jackets and trousers. The suites had some mis-proportions in them- too huge sleeves, to filled trousers… Nothing was normal. Not only Thom entertained us with all these illusions and tricks, but also took us to another dimension of tailorship, that he is so good in.

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