AMI is the moment’s hottest label coming from Paris- it’s aim is to bring cool Parisian chic back to men’s wardrobe. As it’s their first runway collection (the venue was a snowy park), it was really buzzy. And not only because of the guest model, Caroline de Maigret, who wore a tuxedo in super chic way. The collection itself was fantastic, full of vibrant red colour and comfortable pieces that every men ought to have. My favourite- the totally camel look. This is a perfection.
Men’s
Men’s: Comme des Garcons AW14
The Comme des Garcons Homme Plus collection for AW14 was all about Hiroshima chic and apocalyptic style that this label is believing in from the beginning. The collection was (no wonder) dark and dull, although there were some pieces that are really high IQ. For example the necklace that remind suite’s collar. Or the grungy chunky sweaters with holes cut out… And the most amusing and frightening thing of this greasy collection was the hair that models had- it reminded me of “Alien” movie were these shrimp-like UFO had these long, black structures on heads. This CdG presentation is definitely not the basic one, but still, it’s fun… And spooky.
Men’s: Suite Up. Berluti AW14
Alessandro Sartori who gave a rebirth to the old label Berluti, known for the best men suits and shoes, simply nailed it yesterday at the first to date live runway collection. Elegant, comfortable suits made with the best tailoring; cashmere sweaters in warm colours; shoes made of triple layered wool and leather; and amazing camel coats are just few of the highlights. I really loved the selection of models; mature, with a specific chic in them. The way they wore the outfits (nonchalantly, a bit loosely) with gloves and huge bags was like a poetry. After discovering Berluti once again, I am already waiting for the new changes made by Mr. Sartori!
Men’s: Basketball. Givenchy AW14
Riccardo Tisci of Givenchy always openly says that he is inspired with street style while designing new collection. And this time we went to Brooklyn, where the muscular guys play basketball, listen to rap and wear all these LAKERS tank tops. The venue of the collection was all about a basketball field, with the cyber-clock and baskets… the models wore over-sized trousers, sneakers, loose jumpers and tank-tops just like Michael Jourdan. But in more fashionable way. I don’t see anything for me, but surely this will be a hit in the stores… P.s. Mariacarla Boscono is back after her pregnancy! She was a guest model of the show and as always looked fierce…
Men’s: Maison Martin Margiela AW14
Maison Martin Margiela did a greatly tailored collection for their AW14. Mixed with utilitarian elements, fur and leather, some artisanal vests and jackets were created, looking damn cool and practical. Then there was this amazing shirling fur jacket, black capes and radiant blue leather appearance throughout the show. The collection is contemporary, comfortable and elegant, but as well full of young, creative spirit. And the show venue was fantastic- a huge space that simply nailed it. 
Design & Culture by Ed 