Generous. Jil Sander Pre-Fall 2019

There is something incredibly appealing about Lucie and Luke Meier’s pre-fall 2019 collection for Jil Sander. Of course, every Philophile (read: an individual with a maniacal obsession for Phoebe Philo) will note a number of Céline-like moments – take the knitted pants with a matching top, for example. But since Phoebe isn’t designing, and some of us decided to completely disconnect from Hedi Slimane’s Celine, Jil Sander seems to be entering that niche with big steps. What I definitely loved about this collection is its tactility, always so in-demand during the autumn season. Meiers’ simplicity isn’t coldly minimal, but rather soft and fleecy. Whether it’s a coat with a fringed blanket element, a classical pinstripe shirt dress or a voluminous duvet jacket with a hoodie that turns into a collar, Jil Sander has you covered with great outerwear and comfortable daywear. Also, don’t call the clothes ‘over-sized’. “They’re not oversize really,” said Lucie. “They’re generous, friendly volumes; it’s all about comfort, the softness around the body. There are no hard edges.” The cozy feeling was translated into double wools, lightly padded silks, and spongy, natural felts. Accessories haven’t been that good at Jil Sander for a while, too. Their new XXL bags (some, at first sight, looked like made from paper – is it a nod to Raf Simons’s iconic men’s clutches he did for the brand back in 2012?) and leather clogs are so, so good. The Meiers thrive.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Flirting with Fashion. Marni Resort 2019

Marni‘s just-released resort 2019 look-book is so, so good. Francesco Risso‘s pre-collection feels like a remix of fashion history’s key chapters. 1930s dynamism and turn-the-century crinolines where beautifully matched with couture-inspired volumes (see that extraordinary black coat with XXL, round sequins or one of those chic peplum dresses), while contemporary, loosely fitted biker jackets contrasted with corset-like bustiers. Risso loves jumping from one theme to another, somehow pulling harmony out of chaos in his work for the Italian house. The looks, shot by Bibi Cornejo Borthwick, have that ‘realness’ factor – those aren’t pieces for fashion editorials, but for life. A joyful, slightly eccentric kind of life!

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Creative Process. Marni SS19

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Marni by Francesco Risso is playful, that’s one thing. Second thing is that Risso lets his clothing talk for themselves – and that’s a rarity in Milan (except for Miuccia Prada, who’s been Francesco’s boss for a few years when he worked at Prada). Those aren’t just dresses, jackets and a bunch of accessories. Every single piece is a story. Whether we’re speaking of a bustier dress with an one-of-a-kind collage print or a necklace so eclectic that it reminds you of Iza Genzken artwork, Risso tells fashion tales that are neither minimal or opulent – two poles that seem to simplify today’s fashion in to two camps. For spring-summer 2019, the creative director as well developed this idea of creative process, and finding the right moment to stop working on something. He explained that in a further way backstage of his show. “It started with the process of the work in the studio, and thinking of it as a painter’s canvas, which keeps changing and modifying in the trials and mistakes – suddenly, that becomes the work itself”. His Marni seems to be experimental, but not over-pushed to look too arty. And simultaneously, each of the garment is wearable and suited for the daily life. Nothing proves that more than the diverse casting of models, of different shapes and life paths. I guess Marni is the collection from Milan I will surely look back at more than once this season.

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

65 Years. Missoni SS19

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Missoni‘s spring-summer 2019 collection happened to celebrate 65 years of the brand. That’s what you call an anniversary! The show was held outdoors and Michael Nyman played a piano recital just a few steps from the runway. Angela Missoni‘s collection was typically… Missoni: light knits, patchwork dresses and the signature zigzag pattern were all over the line-up. The colour palette was earthy and calm. Shortly speaking, the collection was full of warmth and felt properly grounded. Just like the brand’s reputation that hasn’t changed at all, throughout all those years. Missoni is relevant. Missoni is suited for life (whether it’s a very Italian garden party you’re invited to, a long and tedious travel or a romantic walk down the sea-side). And, what’s most surprising in today’s fashion industry, it’s independent. That’s how you pass the test of time.

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.