Luca Lin of Act No.1 is leading Milan’s new wave of designers, carving his own path in a landscape still largely dominated by mega-watt houses. His brand is a decade old, yet Lin’s work feels unseasoned in the best possible way. Trained in a traditional design discipline, he aims to “take that standard and use it to mix and match, creating something new.”
The result is a distinct way of carrying oneself: layered, oversized tailoring interwoven with details that possess a soul of their own. For autumn-winter 2026, the standout piece is a structured top hand-embroidered with more than 25,000 tiny deadstock buttons sourced from Italian manufacturer RIBL. Some of these buttons are over 50 years old, allowing the piece to blend past and present in the spirit of new materialism – a direction poignantly echoed by Hodakova in Paris.
But Act No.1 isn’t only about one-of-a-kind collectibles. The label also offers beautifully cut jackets, coats, and trousers, all subtly deconstructed and radiating an airy coolness. The sunburnt palette – ochre, mustard, orange, and burgundy – is delicious.
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Three seasons into his tenure at Missoni, Alberto Caliri has found his footing. The house – which had been navigating uncertain waters for years after the founding family stepped back – now appears to be entering a quiet renaissance under a creative director deeply versed in its archives, having spent much of his career within the brand’s inner circle. READ MY FULL REVIEW HERE.
Missoni Caperdoni Striped Padded Wool And Cotton-blend Jacket
Missoni Striped Metallic Crochet-knit Turtleneck Sweater
Missoni Caperdoni Checked Tweed Mini Skirt
Missoni Ribbed Wool Turtleneck Sweater
Missoni Checked Wool Mini Skirt
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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For several seasons now, Matteo Tamburini’s Tod’s has been the unsung star of Milan Fashion Week. This time, his woman feels more hands-on – perhaps even faintly industrial. She could be a sculptor unafraid to work clay with her bare hands, or a vineyard owner who tends the vines herself. READ MY FULL REVIEW HERE.
Tod’s Gommino Bow-detailed Suede Mules
Tod’s Embellished Leather Loafers
Tod’s Gommino Macro Leather-trimmed Suede Loafers
Tod’s Fringed Glossed-leather Brogues
Tod’s Gomma Embellished Leather Knee Boots
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Design & Culture by Ed 