Ugly Chic, Extreme. Prada SS25

September 20, 2024 | Design & Culture by Ed

Back in the 90s, Miuccia Prada introduced “ugly chic“, a style so wildly anti-fashion it polarized the entire fashion industry. Yesterday, together with her creative partner Raf Simons, Prada presented a collection so notorious, bizarre and “wrong” that one can either hate-hate it or hate-love it. I’m grateful to both of them for showing a collection that sparked true dismay and confusion – finally, fashion that doesn’t just deliver momentary visual satisfaction or, at worse, lack of any impression. Like a remix of Prada’s greatest hits seen through the lens of a teen who’s living a “Brat” summer 365 days in a year (and probably loves acid), the tackiness, ill-fittingness and clumsiness of this collection reaches perverse levels. So perverse, you feel a kinky affection to it. Yes, contemporary fashion can still make waves, edge the internet so sharply it will spill venomous hate in response, and leave the viewers electrified – with unhinged ecstasy or absolute frustration. Prada and Simons are still capable of shaking the status quo of aesthetics. This is “ugly chic, extreme“.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Essential Beauty Routine. Marni SS25

September 20, 2024 | Design & Culture by Ed

It’s Francesco Risso‘s ninth year at Marni. His work at the brand took different turns, from being avant-garde-sketchy to raw and crude (like last season). Spring-summer 2025 was a pursuit after beauty. “Beauty is a white rabbit,” said Risso backstage. “You chase it, though you fall short in capturing it.” But he actually took grasp of it, especially in closing part of the collection, inspired with bygone era of fashion shows and 1950s haute couture, through a lens of “Funny Face“. Slender silhouettes in soft hues, small hourglass dresses shaped by vertical pleats, tight siren skirts with stiff ruched hems – this is Marni that will certainly attract the clients to the stores. But this wouldn’t be Risso’s Marni if it was all pretty and prim. The collection was made of humble cotton, being a “thread that mends relationships and wounds, guiding us back to the right path after we’ve strayed and leading us toward what I call the essential beauty routine“. The seemingly rough, canvas texture of broad-shouldered jackets, pleated trousers and cut-out skirts gave the collection a sense of “work in progress“. In Risso’s world, beauty isn’t a constant. It’s something you look out for with patience and perseverance.

Marni-fy your wardrobe…

ED’s SELECTION:

Marni Leather Mary Jane Pumps

Marni Frayed Denim Midi Skirt

Marni Printed Silk-satin Mini Dress

Marni Embossed Leather Ballet Flats

Marni Embroidered Cotton-blend Mini Dress

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Toned-Down. Fendi SS25

September 19, 2024 | Design & Culture by Ed

This year, Fendi celebrates its 100 years. Maybe that was the reason for Kim Jones to finally deliver a good collection for the brand. What kept it cohesive was the combination of house craft, toned-down color palette, and an attitude that stemmed from the jazz-age modernism of the 1920s. The embroidered flapper-dresses worked nicely with all the streamlined minimalism. Still, looking at the taupe shirt-dress, one just wonders what differs Fendi from Max Mara? Except for Baguette, pretty much nothing. It would be great to see some fun back at the brand, a Karl Lagerfeld-ian wit.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Jil Sander’s Cannolo Bag

August 17, 2024 | Design & Culture by Ed

Jil Sander is having one of the best bag games out there. From sleek shoulder bags to ultra-chic carryalls, the brand offers a range of delightful classics. Very delightful, as the season’s star is inspired with cannoli – the ultimate Sicilian dessert. During Carnival, the phallic-shaped cannolo becomes the token of desire. Traditionally, men would gift the treats to prospective lovers to show their affections, singing: Ogni cannolu è scettru d’ ogni Re… lu cannolu è la virga di Mosè (“Every cannolo is the sceptre of every king… the cannolo is the penis of Moses” – not very demure!). In case of Jil Sander, the cannolo takes a minimalist turn and looks like the future it-bag.

Here are my favorite Jil Sander bags you can invest in now! Thank me later.

ED’s SELECTION:

Jil Sander Cannolo Small Leather Shoulder Bag

Jil Sander Leather-trimmed Raffia Shoulder Bag

Jil Sander Snake-effect Leather Shoulder Bag

Jil Sander Padded Leather Shoulder Bag

Jil Sander Mini Bamboo Leather Tote

Jil Sander Origami Padded Snake-effect Leather Clutch

Jil Sander All-day Textured-leather Shoulder Bag

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Obsessed: Prada AW24 Menswear

July 23, 2024 | Design & Culture by Ed

Some of Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons‘ ideas might not resonate immediately when seen on the runway. But six months later, the moment they arrive to the stores, these concepts become more approachable – and turn into obsessions. A menacing tension felt palpable once the models, dressed as corporate commuters, walked on the raised glass floor with a stream running through a meadow beneath. But when you put Prada‘s autumn-winter 2024 venue aside, you see great, great menswear – and accessories, like the wool caps in the most striking shades of green, yellow and red. The collection itself consisted of ultimate classics of menswear, as Simons listed for “the businessman, the working man, the thinking man.” The Prada twist was about touches that subverted these safe spaces of identity, enticing the wearer to surround himself with nature. Narrow-fit raincoats, tweed chore jackets, three-button gray topcoats, and gold buttoned naval outerwear all offered a route outdoors. This is a Prada outing that offers safeness and quintessence, clothes-wise.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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