Oh, Raf. Calvin Klein AW17

February 11, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

While watching yesterday’s Calvin Klein show, where Raf Simons had his anticipated debut, I thought that up to now, a fashion follower felt like he / she had to belong to a specific ‘camp’. After Alessandro Michele of Gucci and Demna Gvasalia of Vetements and Balenciaga appeared on the scene in more or less the same time, fashion got so polarised. You either had to rush after embroidery madness and all those sparkly accessories or go for “the uglier, the better” kind of look, which says a strict ‘no’ to anything pretty. But what about people (like me), who weren’t falling into any of these camps entirely? I’m still a helpless sucker for Phoebe Philo’s Céline. But here is the new Calvin Klein.

Years at his own menswear brand, succesful tenures at Jil Sander and Dior – from every aspect, Raf seems to be the person, who can handle a major fashion brand, putting it again into the spotlight (and for longer, than a while). And especially if a label like Calvin Klein, which for the last few years was rather associated with Justin Bieber’s phallus in a pair of boxers than remarkable clothing, gradually declined. And Calvin Klein wasn’t only about NSFW Kate Moss and Brooke Shields advertisements: in the past, Klein used to pull off empowering suits for businesswomen, sensual slip-dresses and timeless apparel.

When Raf Simons and his design team (Pieter Mulier and Matthieu Blazy) were appointed at Calvin Klein back in August, the Belgian designer understood those codes instantly. And he knew they had to come back for good. Not only Calvin Klein logo and advertising campaigns got revamped; but the entire wardrobe for both men and women (both lines will be now put into one collection) went through heavy refreshment. For autumn-winter 2017, the Belgian designer put emphasis on suiting. Over-sized blazers for both men and women looked sharp, just like the pencil skirts and smart pants. The yellow coat worn by Julia Nobis was ‘trapped’ under vinyl, just like technicolour-era feather dresses. Simons loves messing up with stereotypes, so did he with American glamour: even the heels looked plastic-fantastic. Contemporary cowboy boots; body exposure mania in form of transparent knitwear; total leather looks for a motorcycle ride along Route 66. Even though Raf presented his first collection just a few months after Donald Trump won the elections, he doesn’t want to be miserable. He wants to celebrate America, its absurdity and phenomena. And that’s best seen in the wrapped, USA flag skirt.

Calvin Klein

All-American Elegance. Brock Collection AW17

February 10, 2017February 10, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

In a few words about Brock Collection, New York’s new go-to luxe brand: it’s designed by husband-and-wife duo, Kristopher Brock and Laura Vassar. With love. Last November, the couple won the CFDA / Vogue Fashion Fund, which enabled them to expand and develop their cozy womenswear label known for great denim and top-notch quality essentials.

About the autumn-winter 2017 line-up – you just feel it’s a collection created by two individuals, who are in a passionate relationship! It’s impossible not to fall in mutual love with those easy fur dresses and shawls, statuesque dresses or fleecy, soft knits. Rustical prints on pencil skirts and belted beige cardigans remind me of early Ralph Lauren and Donna Karan. It’s an all-American, luxurious wardrobe of a woman, who knows what she wants from life. She loves everything about the word ‘comfort’. But Kristopher’s and Laura’s fashion isn’t exactly falling into that well-defined box of New York-based designers, who are pure minimalists and less-is-more fanatics. The new collection is filled with more flirty options, like strap dresses or chic leopard-printed coats. That’s why I listed Ralph above – Brock Collection smartly conveys ageless elegance, but to contemporary times.

#2016 – Marc Jacobs

December 10, 2016July 22, 2020 | Design & Culture by Ed

New York Fashion Week might impress and surprise, but leave “shocking” to Marc Jacobs, who always ends the city’s schedule with a spotlight-stealing collection. For spring-summer 2017, Jacobs presented an ecstatic rave of his latest obsessions, inspirations, collaborators and, of course, aesthetic. At the Hammerstein Ballroom, Stefan Beckman built a huge stage splattered with grease, lit up by more than a thousand little bulbs. A perfect space for an off-beat, underground party filled with techno-music and thirsty-for-fun people. The association was right – it was the venue of the most youthful collection of the season.

Autumn-winter 2016 was all about gothic culture in fashion, mixed with an aristocratic, soigne mannered dames and grunge, off-duty slouchiness. Chokers and all those extravagant embroideries on cardigans and dresses… then, the queens of darkness came out (Molly Bair slayed the runway – even Lady Gaga couldn’t keep up with her) in their voluminous, black ball-gowns with astrakhan capes. Laser cut floral PVC skirts and crotchet collars styled with elongated college sweatshirts had this striking contrast of old-school and the vintage tendency. The effect? Over-the-top, as usual at Marc Jacobs, but this season it was even more outstanding.

This year belongs to Jacobs not only thanks to his oozing with fantasy grandeur. You’ve surely spotted the platform shoes which strike you in every second fashion editorial. Polished black for winter; suede pink for summer. You’re a head taller in these killers. If 2016 isn’t the year of Marc himself, then it’s the year of his literally major footwear.

Your wardrobe needs… Marc Jacobs platforms, Marc Jacobs ‘MTV’ t-shirt & Marc Jacobs pink tulle skirt.

Café Henrie

October 26, 2016October 28, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

This place used to be a garage owned by a hot-dog booth. Now it is the most fashionable address in the Lower East Side. Café Henrie in the newest initiative of André Saraiva, a famous graffiti artist, who for many years has been a soul of Parisian parties and fashion events. His projects include the design of seductive Hotel Amour and chic Castel Paris. And then… he found out he needed a place in New York, where he could drink a delicious cup of coffee. Just a few steps away from his studio.

The interior reflects André’s eclectic aesthetics. There are the timeless benches of Jean Prouvé which for years have been collected at the Parisian flea markets. Pink neons designed by Petra Collins hang in the toilets. Colourful, ceramic vessels designed by Peter Shire (one of members of the Memphis Group) are a good reason to take an Instagram-perfect picture. Café Henrie is constantly changing and the owner regularly invites his favourite artists to co-create this unique place.

And yet, Café Henrie is not only about its interior. It’s the food, and the signature menu of Camille Becerra that stands behind the restaurant’s success. Favourite dish of New Yorkers? „Dragon Bowl“, a bowl filled to the rim with avocado, herbs, pickled veggies and garden salad. Vegan nachos served with mysteriously called sauces (such as Beet Tahini or Gentlemen’s Relish), „Persian” meatballs or tea-and-ginger chicken are only some of the menu’s delicacies that attract everyone at Henrie.

Thanks to Chloë Sevigny herself, who is a frequent guest and a friend with André, Café Henrie is a cult spot. But at the same time, this place seems to be one of the most laid-back in the city, far from the turmoil of fashionable districts.

116 Forsyth Street / New York

Initially posted by me here.

Raise The Glass. Maryam Nassir Zadeh SS17

October 16, 2016October 14, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

After a month of fashion, fashion and once again, fashion, the days after the last shows in Paris feel like the most idyllic moment for the fashion industry. Also, it’s the time to reflect on the season, and review much quieter, yet equally brilliant collections from off-the-radar designers. Maryam Nassir Zadeh‘s spring-summer 2017 was presented at the beginning of warm September in a West Village gallery, and it was rather a downtown brunch with friends (including Ana Kraš, Mari Giudicelli, Oroma Elewa and other MNZ girls) than a fashion show. Zadeh’s women sat at a table piled with fruits and Mediterranean ceramics, and later on started to smash the plates and vases on the floor. No, it wasn’t an art performance; metaphorically, the designer was raising a glass to the success of her brand, her boutique, and creative women, who surround her on daily basis.

The collection is a dream wardrobe for summer. Loosely fit silhouettes and on-the-go styling tricks; sensual, sheer skirts and leather bras; gorgeous denim skirts and lovely beige palette. Maryam is the designer who proudly represents eponymous New York style. It results in the designer’s origins, and maybe the city’s melting-pot culture. Or, it’s just about the idea of making affordable, yet high quality clothes for women in any age. The presentation also celebrated the brand’s debut bag. It’s a hand-woven tote in mint-green. One thing is guaranteed – it will sell fast, in this and any other colour.