Men’s – Classics. Lemaire SS20

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When so much is going on in menswear (especially this season), there might be a need for something classic. In this case, you can’t go wrong with Lemaire. Christophe Lemaire and Sarah Linh Tran‘s spring-summer 2020 look-book is the perfect balance of softened workwear and tailored essentials, all kept in a colour palette of powdery, earthy tones. Shirting and loose tops came in prints produced in collaboration with a marbling designer, originally a specialist on bookmaking. The collection subtly nodded to Rüdiger Vogler in 1974’s Wim Wenders film Alice in the Cities, but even not knowing that, you’re completely convinced by this line-up. That’s the power of Lemaire – references are low-key, uninvasive, and you’re focused on the clothes.

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

McDonald’s. Vetements SS20

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As  I’m still digesting Vetements‘ spring-summer 2020 collection, which was presented at the largest McDonald’s location in Paris… so here is a sequence of thoughts and impressions I had.

Eew. From the opening policeman look to the idea of McDonald’s… just eew.

But then, where else would Vetements show its collection? Perfectly provocating, but as simple as that.

It’s straightforwardly genius.

However, the looks… it seems to me that Demna Gvasalia and his team do the same thing for the last few seasons, on repeat. Vetements signatures they have already shown us.

Right now I’m catching myself on this endless desire of newness in fashion, something that Vetements is totally against. They are against the current, against the system, against the fashion industry. Against junk fashion. How ironic…

Also, how brilliant is the idea of dresses made out of unused Vetements textiles from previous seasons? They won’t end up in the landfill!

So I start to kind of like it. After a month of countless shows (which aren’t even ready-to-wear lines!), Demna shows the fashion establishment a middle finger.

And then, the last thought. So if Vetements hates fashion… how long can they stay in this circuit? And at the same time supply stores, earn money, etc.?

Or is this just for the sole purpose of real, fashion fun? Honestly, this will be one of the only shows that will stay in your mind for the next months.

So, as you can see, many questions. Maybe you’ve got some thoughts? Would love to hear them!

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

 

Men’s – Archi-Fluidity. Dries Van Noten SS20

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After a quite melancholic winter season for both men and women, Dries Van Noten is back with vibrant, energetic and very hot collection for spring-summer 2020. “It’s about ‘archi-fluidity.’ So, it’s a fluidity of archetypes of men and of garments. . . it’s all the typical elements that you know, like jeans, army pants, businessmen’s suits, soldier outfits—all those different things which are mixed in a very unconventional way, looking a lot to ’80s movies like Fassbinder’s ‘Querelle’, or even earlier things like ‘Pink Narcissus’.” He had it all, from sultry leopard prints and bold fuchsia to tropical florals and camo. There was leather, there was mesh, there were chains. Tailored blazers with short shorts are more than welcome. Seeing this collection, I can hear Lana Del Rey’s Sublime cover of Doin’ Time song in my mind…

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Men’s – Positivity. Louis Vuitton SS20

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It’s Virgil Abloh‘s third season at men’s Louis Vuitton, and probably his best. For the spring-summer 2020 show, the brand held it in the real-life, cobbled streets and cafes of the Place Dauphine. The audience sat under trees on Louis Vuitton park benches or sipped a glass of champagne at outdoor tables. The view? A collection of easy, big shapes, flowing pants, real flowers stuck into harnesses and some really good outerwear. People like Dev Hynes of Blood Orange were part of the show’s casting, which made it even more intriguing. Of course, there were some similiarities to Craig Green’s garments in these wearable, geometric constructions that closed the show, but the collection’s main focus was on couture-level craftsmanship. Flower embroideries climbed up tulle coats, and a couple of immensely luxe iterations of hoodies, made from minutely pleated chiffon. “I’m learning, and taking much more of a couture approach”, he told the press after the show. It was a collection oozing with pure positivity, from the delicious pastel colour palette to the flower power elements.

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.