Villain Teen. Valentino Resort 2027

Valentino and teen-inspired coolness aren’t exactly two concepts you’d expect to find in the same sentence, but Alessandro Michele somehow makes the combination feel entirely natural. The designer has long been fond of punctuating his own eclectic wardrobe with a slogan cap – often sourced from Idea Ltd – and for resort 2027, he decided to bring the trick to Valentino.

The result? His “Villain Teen” caps look surprisingly chic paired with heavily embroidered jackets worn over ripped jeans, floor-sweeping retro dresses, heirloom furs, and all the glorious shoulder-padded excess of 1980s glamorama. You can easily imagine the Valentino girl and boy spending their parents’ money on antiques at Paul Bert Serpette, draped in their grandmother’s jewels, wrapped in bourgeois silk scarves, and indulging in a touch of aristocratic cosplay.

These are modern-day villains, but the kind who know how to have fun. The cap is the crucial ingredient: it stops everything from feeling like costume and makes it read as genuine personal style. Michele has been gradually loosening Valentino’s collar with each outing, and this feels like the most convincing expression of that approach yet. It’s a direction he should continue to pursue.

ED’s SELECTION:


Valentino Garavani Striped Metallic Knitted Poncho



Valentino Garavani Bow-embellished Ruched Wool Jacket



Valentino Garavani Vlogo Signature Mini Bow-detailed Velvet Shoulder Bag



Valentino Garavani Bowow 45 Bow-embellished Leather Pumps



Valentino Garavani Panthea Small Patchwork Leather And Suede Shoulder Bag

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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What’s Going On? Balenciaga Resort 2027

Balenciaga has released its resort 2027 lookbook. It’s Pierpaolo Piccioli’s strongest work for the house so far – which doesn’t necessarily mean it’s good. Maybe he’s getting there. But I still think he needs to decide what exactly he wants his Balenciaga to be, because at this point, I’m still clueless.

The collection spans more than 80 looks, photographed inside Cristóbal Balenciaga’s couture salon. The space itself carries enormous symbolic weight, especially considering it was Demna who restored, reclaimed, and reactivated it not a while ago. Using it this early in Piccioli’s tenure feels almost too obvious. Rather than communicating a convincing new chapter, the setting keeps pulling the conversation back to the previous one. Visually, it feels less like a fresh beginning and more like reheated nachos. READ MY FULL REVIEW HERE.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Carnal Allure. Tom Ford Pre-Fall 2026

Haider Ackermann’s Tom Ford feels like a wet dream made flesh: Lisa Lyon working out to Madonna’s “Erotica“, or Helmut Berger cast in an art-house adult film. The energy is relentlessly otherworldly- steamy, regally refined, and dangerously seductive. His pre-fall 2026 collection delivers exactly that.

What’s particularly striking is how powerful Ackermann’s clothes remain outside the spectacle of the runway. Even against the plain backdrop of a lookbook, they hold your gaze, effortlessly hypnotic. As the collection arrives in stores, there’s plenty to obsess over: razor-sharp tailoring, deliciously kinky leather pieces for both men and women, languid floor-skimming gowns, and outerwear so impeccable it borders on fetishistic. Classic Daddy Haider.

We saw Ackermann explore denim in the main collection, but here he pushes it further, giving the lineup a raunchier, more casual edge. It evokes the mood of Tom Ford’s Santa Fe ranch (think that unforgettable Terry Richardson editorial for Vogue Paris where they kiss). The result is a collection that feels both louche and luxurious, gritty and sensual… this is carnal allure.

ED’s SELECTION:


TOM FORD Iggy Oval-frame Acetate Sunglasses



TOM FORD Cotton And Silk-blend Duchesse-satin Blazer



TOM FORD Striped Silk-satin Jacquard Shirt



TOM FORD Leather Chelsea Boots



TOM FORD Double-breasted Cashmere-blend Blazer



TOM FORD Cotton And Silk-blend Duchesse Satin Straight-leg Pants



TOM FORD Croc-effect Patent-leather Cuff

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Legendary. Balenciaga AW07

After Nicolas Ghesquière’s latest show for Louis Vuitton, staged among the old masters and Gilded Age grandeur of the Frick Collection, my affection for him returned with a bang. The collection left me perplexed. Confused, even. But confused in a good way – the kind of confusion that sends you back into the archives looking for answers. Which is exactly how I ended up revisiting one of the great Ghesquière collections: Balenciaga autumn-winter 2007.

And let me tell you: whatever Ghesquière and his team were on that season, I want some. Because it’s extraordinarily rare for an entire design studio, together with a stylist, to arrive at something so wicked, tweaked, spectacular and utterly forward-looking. Nearly two decades later, it still feels as if it landed from another planet. READ MY FULL TEXT HERE.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Concise Memo. Saint Laurent Pre-Fall 2026

Noting how quickly everything shifts in fashion, Anthony Vaccarello’s Saint Laurent has become a contemporary classic. The lingerie-inflected separates and gilded lace may be edging toward formula, but the Zoë Kravitzes of the world still can’t get enough of that smoky, after-hours boudoir allure – and Anthony, naturally, delivers again this autumn (and winter too, if the March show was any indication). Shearling is in, sheer black-stockinged legs are in, and the YSL Smoking now comes paired with bermudas. Some collections could have been an email, and there’s nothing wrong with that. This lookbook reads like a reassuringly concise memo on the virtues of absolute consistency.

ED’s SELECTION:


SAINT LAURENT Lace-trimmed Silk-satin Skirt



SAINT LAURENT Cropped Leavers Lace-trimmed Ribbed Silk-jersey Top



SAINT LAURENT Lace-trimmed Silk-satin Bodysuit



SAINT LAURENT Deroche Satin Slingback Pumps



SAINT LAURENT Howl D-frame Acetate Sunglasses