Pulpy. Dries Van Noten SS27

October 5, 2026 | Design & Culture by Ed

I know everybody loved Julian Klausner’s latest effort at Dries Van Noten, but I’m not entirely sold on it. On paper, it looks solid. But on second glance, its pulpiness starts to feel dangerously Prada-ish, or even Marni-ish – specifically the Consuelo Castiglioni era, with a few tinges of Francesco Risso thrown in.

Klausner can’t be a forever A+ student of Papa Dries’s school, and he’s very welcome to step outside that particular comfort zone – one that Dries Van Noten clients clearly adore and can’t seem to get enough of. But somehow, the spring-summer 2027 lady-like turn towards the 1950s didn’t quite click for me. Neither did the extremely layered styling, which often concealed the actual clothes rather than allowing them to speak for themselves.

There’s nothing wrong with Klausner wanting to move on. In fact, he probably should. I’m just not sure this particular detour has found its destination yet.

ED’s SELECTION:

Dries Van Noten Belted Pleated Linen-blend Jacquard Skirt

Dries Van Noten Ripa Giant Egg Printed Satin Coat

Dries Van Noten Ruched Satin Mules

Dries Van Noten Mélange Grain De Poudre Blouse

Dries Van Noten Printed Twill Scarf

All collages by Edward Kanarecki.

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So Bad It’s Great. Valentino SS27

October 5, 2026 | Design & Culture by Ed

At first, I found Alessandro Michele’s latest Valentino collection so obnoxiously tacky that I was close to completely dismissing it. But then I went back to it. And again. And again. And I still can’t stop looking. I realised that, with all its va-va-voom, Michele is ferociously fighting the current status quo of fashion: the safer, the better. We are so indoctrinated with ideas of “good taste” that his collection feels like a much-needed danger – a slap on the wrist that shakes you up. The colours are gloriously pop and motley, the silhouettes delightfully old-school, and there’s something very, very enchanting about how profoundly un-modern this collection looks. In a fashion landscape obsessed with restraint, Michele is making a case for excess, awkwardness and sheer visual pleasure. It’s so bad, it’s great.

ED’s SELECTION:

Valentino Garavani Bow-detailed Gathered Satin-trimmed Wool-crepe Jacket

Valentino Garavani Printed Lace-trimmed Cotton T-shirt

Valentino Garavani Bowow 45 Bow-embellished Velvet Pumps

Valentino. A Grand Italian Epic by Taschen

Valentino Garavani Gold-tone, Crystal, Faux Pearl And Resin Earrings

Valentino Garavani Embellished Satin-trimmed Cropped Cotton-blend Velvet Peplum Top

All collages by Edward Kanarecki.

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School. Miu Miu SS27

October 4, 2026 | Design & Culture by Ed

A year ago, Miuccia Prada sent aprons down the Miu Miu runway – blue, floral, not unlike the ones worn by Bożena at my favourite greengrocer. As usual with Prada, her fascination with the supposedly mundane first caused confusion, then collective obsession. The apron became less a fashion statement than a political one. For spring-summer 2027, Prada takes us somewhere else entirely: from the market to the schoolyard. More specifically, the gym. READ MY FULL REVIEW HERE.

ED’s SELECTION:

Miu Miu Leather Slingback Mules

Miu Miu Logo-Knit Silk Sock

Miu Miu Diagonal Rib Silk Skirt

Miu Miu Contrast-Striped Cotton-Blend Polo Shirt

Miu Miu Embellished Satin Slide Sandals

All collages by Edward Kanarecki.

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Boutique-ness. Courrèges SS27

October 4, 2026 | Design & Culture by Ed

I actually really liked Drew Henry’s debut at Courrèges. This is possibly one of the most difficult houses to make sense of in the 21st century. His predecessors either went blindly too space-age or focused solely on the vinyl jacket. Nicolas Di Felice seemed to have the vision, but I always thought the brand wouldn’t mind a little more warmth.

Henry, a Phoebe Philo alum, approached it with a certain boutique-ness, which is a rarity in Paris lately, where everything must be bigger and louder. It feels like something you would look for in a small shop somewhere in France, where the owner is named Françoise or Francine, has the best style in the world, and however hard you try, you will never dress like her (but you can try!).

There were very chic-looking colour-block jackets and pea coats in a 1960s cut that wasn’t too on-the-nose; an otherwise simple look of a black T-shirt and yellow pants sharpened with a pair of driving gloves; a quirky little hat here and there. The male models wearing the signature André Courrèges A-line mini dresses? It felt like a spontaneous, not-overthought decision that just radically worked. Something is germinating in this house again. Just please give it time to bud.

All collages by Edward Kanarecki.

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Pleasures of Spontainety. Celine SS27

October 4, 2026 | Design & Culture by Ed

Celine’s Michael Rider is interested in reality, but he sees it through a light-hearted lens. His first collections at the brand were exercises in untamed eclecticism, but always with a theory behind them. For spring, the direction feels a little more regal, yet never cold. There’s a tulip-shaped black dress, an embellished satin-finish coat with the fullness of a ball gown. And then, a second later, the mood changes: very eternal beige cashmere sweater worn with cognac leather, or a black velvet suit with a vintage-y printed T-shirt underneath. Classics, made to be worn and lived in, and not be overly precious about. READ MY FULL REVIEW HERE.