Men’s / Haute. Raf Simons SS19

June 21, 2018June 21, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

Yes! Finally somebody said that out loud: “We need a new outline. I know I was part of it myself, but too many hoodies with prints! You know, something needs to shift”. Raf Simons is equally frustrated with that boring, and on-going, splash of athleisure that’s happening in fashion right now. As a response, he did a collection that’s far from sportiness, but closer to the Parisian haute couture ateliers. Satin! Believe it or not, everything except the jersey and a couple of menswear suits was made from duchesse satin – a fabric that one must understand well in order to use skillfully. Definitely, Simons mastered that during his tenure at Dior. Still, the collection was far from saccharine and posh. There was punk (safety pins, studs, black leather and even a vest made of plastic six-pack holders, beer friendly). There was a certain kind of cosmic futurism (note those cumbersome, chunky boots). And, of course, the runway’s venue wasn’t a Rothschild mansion, but some sort of underground club – no seats, just standing. As Instagram reports, a hot after party took place afterwards the show.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Consistently Exciting. Chloé Resort 2019

June 8, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

Natacha Ramsay-Levi makes Chloé bloom, even if she’s not resorting to floral prints as her predecessors. I mean, her Chloé is so good. Her first seasons characterised with smart consistency which is capable of being exciting. And with each collection, Natacha seems to grow in confidence. For resort 2019, the designer continues to play with Chloé codes, like the horse print, but experiments more freely with volumes and styling. I love how that Victorian-sleeping-gown dress gets more badass with the knee-length leather boots. Ramsay-Levi does the Chloé flou, but she doesn’t fall into that dangerously naive, over-feminine trap. That woman isn’t here to be blown away by the wind in the middle of a field. It’s urban chic for self-aware, conscious females.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

So Luxe. Givenchy Resort 2019

May 19, 2018May 18, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

It took me a while to fall in love with Clare Waight Keller‘s refined vision at Givenchy, true. But her resort 2019 collection is fire in terms of both, womenswear and menswear. That luxe feeling behind the faux fur coat, slouched boots and kimono-inspired varsity jackets is nothing ground-breaking, yes, but the effect is sublime. Clare delivers classical elegance, which feels both contemporary (satin hoodies there, slouch pants there) and true to the house’s heritage simultaneously. That black & white mini-dress is quintessentially Hubert De Givenchy. Shortly, that’s a delightful set of looks, styled by the greatest Suzanne Koller. I actually can’t wait what Waight Keller plans for the main collection – a tribute to the late founder of the house is probably in progress.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Consolidated. Balenciaga Pre-Fall 2018

May 18, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

Looking at Demna Gvasalia‘ pre-fall 2018 collection for Balenciaga, it’s quite clear that the designer has fully consolidated his persona into the maison. To such extent, that within his five seasons at the brand he has established cult pieces and cult vibe (like the spandex pantashoes, the Knife mule, the tea-dress, THAT “messy” look). Also, wherever you look, Balenciaga is an international top-seller. But once you take a peek at Gvasalia’s past approach towards fashion (that made everyone feel obsessed with him and his Vetements pals), and see what’s at Balenciaga now, I guess the ‘bad guy’ of fashion dramatically became a success story of the big luxury corporation, Kering. I know a pre-collection should sell, but right now it’s just about flipping prints and switching one neon colour for another. The spark that used to be there with every Balenciaga collection by Gvasalia, even the commercial ones, has gone. Let’s hope it’s a temporary phase…

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Last. Céline Pre-Fall 2018

May 4, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

Yes, it’s the sad truth. Phoebe Philo‘s pre-fall 2018 really is the last collection for Céline. And, once you calm down after a minute (or two), let the tears dry, face it – this collection is a gift that keeps on giving. I think I’ve went through the images dozens of times by now and I constantly discover something new, something completely fresh, something only Philo could do. As Sarah Mower wrote for Vogue, it’s a collection of “souvenirs”, collectibles to wear and adore in memory of Philo’s Céline era. Those wool ponchos; heavy rubber boots; Margiela-esque duvet coats; the white fur coat with an equally fur belt; simple, Katharine-Hepburn-would-approve blazers. The spontaneous shots of Binx Walton, Jess Cole, Karolin Wolter and Maggie Maurer (all the beloved Céline girls) by Juergen Teller get me freaking excited as well. That’s a very, very precious fashion moment to me. And I really can’t wait to see and get hold of some of these pieces once they hit the stores this summer.