Yes! Finally somebody said that out loud: “We need a new outline. I know I was part of it myself, but too many hoodies with prints! You know, something needs to shift”. Raf Simons is equally frustrated with that boring, and on-going, splash of athleisure that’s happening in fashion right now. As a response, he did a collection that’s far from sportiness, but closer to the Parisian haute couture ateliers. Satin! Believe it or not, everything except the jersey and a couple of menswear suits was made from duchesse satin – a fabric that one must understand well in order to use skillfully. Definitely, Simons mastered that during his tenure at Dior. Still, the collection was far from saccharine and posh. There was punk (safety pins, studs, black leather and even a vest made of plastic six-pack holders, beer friendly). There was a certain kind of cosmic futurism (note those cumbersome, chunky boots). And, of course, the runway’s venue wasn’t a Rothschild mansion, but some sort of underground club – no seats, just standing. As Instagram reports, a hot after party took place afterwards the show.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.