Art. Thom Browne AW18

March 10, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

Madonna’s ‘Vogue’ on the soundtrack. Painting models in the background. Sculpted skirts that looked like, yes, Venus of Willendorf. Thom Browne wanted to convey the idea of feminine artistry in his surreal, autumn-winter 2018 collection. Shortly, it’s “Vigée Le Brun painting a vision of what she wanted to be in the 21st century.” The 18th-century female artist, who was famous for being Marie Antoinette’s official portraitist, was an exception in the male dominated profession. No wonder why she’s the inspiration behind the collection. Browne never stops to surprise with his love for craftsmanship – the grey dress with ’embroidered’ nipples and ‘knitted’ pubic hair is a highlight, just like the delightful roses on capes and coats. A show to remember.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Foamed Tailoring. Balenciaga AW18

March 9, 2018March 9, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

“After two years at Balenciaga, I wanted to take all the codes of the house and filter them so they can be one aesthetic and one ethic,” said Demna Gvasalia. What seemed to be a reflective season for Balenciaga‘s creative director, felt at a first glance like a very, very predictable Gvasalia offering. Coats layered over ten other coats, dad-looks, a play with corporate dressing. In other words – well, we’ve seen enough of that. I thought: is there a place for something new?

But then, you and I had no clue that what seemed to be the most ‘basic’ about this collection appeared to be fashion’s revolution. Thanks to a high-tech computer-enabled process, the women’s and men’s blazers were… molded. The tailored silhouettes had been 3-D scanned, the fittings were done digitally and then the forms were printed out. Fabrics that are well known across the traditional industry, like tweed or wool, were then bonded to a “lightweight foam”. Shortly speaking – that’s incredible. Today’s fashion needs that kind of progress a lot, to continue being exciting and desired. I really can’t wait to see how the designer develops the idea further across Balenciaga in the next seasons.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Seduction. Givenchy AW18

March 8, 2018March 8, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

Clare Waight Keller‘s second season at Givenchy looks definitely more promising than the first one. The Hunger and B Movie: Lust and Sound in West-Berlin, 1979-1989 were on the designer’s mood-board. Weimar-era non-chalance of Berliners was also on her mind. The effect was eternally chic, seductive. And, quite intriguing. The ‘sleazy’ faux-fur coats, as Clare called them, were all over the show, and just note how beautiful they look belted. The collection also subtly nods to Hubert de Givenchy signature, the Little Black Dress (here elegantly ornamented with a huge bow). Also, I adored the way the ‘waterfall’ dresses in the evening section (as if anything here could be easily called ‘daywear’…) beautifully flowed down the models’ bodies. Even though it’s still too early to truly capture Waight Keller’s vision for Givenchy – which is rather dark, than light – she might be on the right path.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Camp. Comme Des Garçons AW18

March 8, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

In honour of International Women’s Day, taking a look at Comme Des Garçons autumn-winter 2018 is well advised. Rei Kawakubo is an icredible woman: she is assertive in everything she does, enigmatic, yet sharp. Her company is an empire (even though she would hate that word). Her main line of garments (counting of 16 this season) brings reflection and creativity in every sense of this word to fashion each season. This time, the spirit was more uplifting than usual. Actually, Rei was reading ‘Notes on Camp,’ Susan Sontag’s essay from 1964. As the author wrote, “Camp taste is, above all, a mode of enjoyment, not judgment. Camp is generous, it wants to enjoy. . . . Camp is a tender feeling.” The feeling is all over in here. Clashed clothes, camo with polka dots, sequins and mattresses, flowers and Betty Boop. Mix. Mash. Destroy. Create. Simply incredible.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Characters. Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood AW18

March 7, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood was a parade of characters: from Joan of Arc to haunted brides (and widows), that was a diverse outing. Vivienne and her partner, Andreas, enjoy studying the different and break any kind of stereotypes. Here, boys wore ball dresses, while girls nailed over-sized pirate jackets. Nearly everything would have been superb about this collection if not the fact that the label stole an idea, or two, from London’s emerging, young designers. Even though they have publicly apologized Rottingdean Bazaar and Louise Gray for using their prints and slogans without permission, I just can’t understand how the designers’ studio thought no one would notice that in the first place? I mean, if not Vivienne, many of those brands wouldn’t be here with their explosive attitude today. And now, who’s appropriating whom?

Still, the collection is a bomb.