Men’s / Babel. Rick Owens SS19

June 22, 2018June 22, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

What happened at Rick Owens‘ spring-summer 2019 runway show was extremely beautiful – even if the designer’s aim might have been quite very different. Dyed smoke has suddenly appeared all over the courtyard of the Palais de Tokyo, giving the entire scene an ambiguous atmosphere. Is Owens about to send out a riot? Or some sort of angels? Well, there were models, but the clothes were far from ordinary.

Coats covered up in ‘brutalist sequins’ looked as if constructed of broken glass; the masks some of the boys wore had something fierce, neo-tribal about them. But what really made this collection so spectacular was the closing line-up garments, which were inspired by the dynamism of Russian Constructivist movement. “They’re nylon parkas,” Owens assured, “and they are going to be shipped as nylon parkas, with the poles separately. So you can build them if you want to. But what you are going to see on the hanger is a nice, soft nylon parka—the poles represent what this parka can be. That’s the idea of hope; that is what the poles represent in a way.” The effect was mind-blowing – the models looked out-of-this-world in these storm-cloud-like, floating pieces.

(Vladimir Tatlin and his apprentices constructing the model of Tatlin’s Tower, a monument to the Third International.)

The collection’s title – Babel – was as well meaningful for the designer. Babel, Vladimir Tatlin’s never-built tower, commissioned by Lenin to highlight the Bolshevik dominance in Russia. “It’s such a symbol of hope, and there is something so compelling about how it looks. A Constructivist tower is about control, and the Tower of Babel is about confusion: everybody splitting up and too much information, too.” How accurate can this also relate to our today’s world, drenched with the horrifying political absurdities and tensions. Rick is an aware designer, who speaks his thoughts and current emotions through the clothes he shows on the runway. This one certainly is a vividly, strong collection that has a lot to say.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Men’s / Interim. Lemaire SS19

June 22, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

In a way, that’s just a preview of Lemaire‘s spring-summer 2019 collection. The label has decided to show both, menswear and womenswear, in one integrated show during the usual Paris fashion week schedule this autumn. But, what to expect (and already love!) from Christophe Lemaire and Sarah Linh Tran? Delightful pajamas made in collaboration with Sunspel. Footwear produced together with sustainable French brand called Veja. The real-life look-book also shared a glimpse at raincoats, gorgeous knits and some very charming samples from the woman’s wardrobe. “We shot the pictures on the street in Pantin, just outside Paris,” said Christophe, “and a lot of passersby had something to say. Many people liked the shoes. And this one woman was really excited by the volume and the pleated pants; she said, ‘Ah, it takes me back to the ’80s!’” Fashion is fashion, but it’s the people who decide what’s in. Lemaire, without much fuss, is always in.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Men’s / Haute. Raf Simons SS19

June 21, 2018June 21, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

Yes! Finally somebody said that out loud: “We need a new outline. I know I was part of it myself, but too many hoodies with prints! You know, something needs to shift”. Raf Simons is equally frustrated with that boring, and on-going, splash of athleisure that’s happening in fashion right now. As a response, he did a collection that’s far from sportiness, but closer to the Parisian haute couture ateliers. Satin! Believe it or not, everything except the jersey and a couple of menswear suits was made from duchesse satin – a fabric that one must understand well in order to use skillfully. Definitely, Simons mastered that during his tenure at Dior. Still, the collection was far from saccharine and posh. There was punk (safety pins, studs, black leather and even a vest made of plastic six-pack holders, beer friendly). There was a certain kind of cosmic futurism (note those cumbersome, chunky boots). And, of course, the runway’s venue wasn’t a Rothschild mansion, but some sort of underground club – no seats, just standing. As Instagram reports, a hot after party took place afterwards the show.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Consistently Exciting. Chloé Resort 2019

June 8, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

Natacha Ramsay-Levi makes Chloé bloom, even if she’s not resorting to floral prints as her predecessors. I mean, her Chloé is so good. Her first seasons characterised with smart consistency which is capable of being exciting. And with each collection, Natacha seems to grow in confidence. For resort 2019, the designer continues to play with Chloé codes, like the horse print, but experiments more freely with volumes and styling. I love how that Victorian-sleeping-gown dress gets more badass with the knee-length leather boots. Ramsay-Levi does the Chloé flou, but she doesn’t fall into that dangerously naive, over-feminine trap. That woman isn’t here to be blown away by the wind in the middle of a field. It’s urban chic for self-aware, conscious females.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

So Luxe. Givenchy Resort 2019

May 19, 2018May 18, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

It took me a while to fall in love with Clare Waight Keller‘s refined vision at Givenchy, true. But her resort 2019 collection is fire in terms of both, womenswear and menswear. That luxe feeling behind the faux fur coat, slouched boots and kimono-inspired varsity jackets is nothing ground-breaking, yes, but the effect is sublime. Clare delivers classical elegance, which feels both contemporary (satin hoodies there, slouch pants there) and true to the house’s heritage simultaneously. That black & white mini-dress is quintessentially Hubert De Givenchy. Shortly, that’s a delightful set of looks, styled by the greatest Suzanne Koller. I actually can’t wait what Waight Keller plans for the main collection – a tribute to the late founder of the house is probably in progress.