Consolidated. Balenciaga Pre-Fall 2018

May 18, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

Looking at Demna Gvasalia‘ pre-fall 2018 collection for Balenciaga, it’s quite clear that the designer has fully consolidated his persona into the maison. To such extent, that within his five seasons at the brand he has established cult pieces and cult vibe (like the spandex pantashoes, the Knife mule, the tea-dress, THAT “messy” look). Also, wherever you look, Balenciaga is an international top-seller. But once you take a peek at Gvasalia’s past approach towards fashion (that made everyone feel obsessed with him and his Vetements pals), and see what’s at Balenciaga now, I guess the ‘bad guy’ of fashion dramatically became a success story of the big luxury corporation, Kering. I know a pre-collection should sell, but right now it’s just about flipping prints and switching one neon colour for another. The spark that used to be there with every Balenciaga collection by Gvasalia, even the commercial ones, has gone. Let’s hope it’s a temporary phase…

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Last. Céline Pre-Fall 2018

May 4, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

Yes, it’s the sad truth. Phoebe Philo‘s pre-fall 2018 really is the last collection for Céline. And, once you calm down after a minute (or two), let the tears dry, face it – this collection is a gift that keeps on giving. I think I’ve went through the images dozens of times by now and I constantly discover something new, something completely fresh, something only Philo could do. As Sarah Mower wrote for Vogue, it’s a collection of “souvenirs”, collectibles to wear and adore in memory of Philo’s Céline era. Those wool ponchos; heavy rubber boots; Margiela-esque duvet coats; the white fur coat with an equally fur belt; simple, Katharine-Hepburn-would-approve blazers. The spontaneous shots of Binx Walton, Jess Cole, Karolin Wolter and Maggie Maurer (all the beloved Céline girls) by Juergen Teller get me freaking excited as well. That’s a very, very precious fashion moment to me. And I really can’t wait to see and get hold of some of these pieces once they hit the stores this summer.

Sportswear is basic, I know. But the burgundy track suit can’t be ignored.

Also, I’ve realised Juergen Teller wore this fur coat to his latest shoot for Pop Magazine.

That. Look. In. The. Middle. I can’t.

Well, that’s all. All good things come to an end, even if we don’t want to end.

All collages by Edward Kanarecki.

Céline, that Woman.

March 30, 2018March 25, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

Her name is Céline. She wears clothes that are challenging, but not vulgar. The style is chic, yet unpretentious. Contemporary, yes, but not overly futuristic. Relevant. Connected. Comfortable.

Phoebe Philo forever. The spring-summer 2018 collection is the very, very best of them all.

First Lady. Louis Vuitton AW18

March 13, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

Nicolas Ghesquiere seems to enjoy France’s First Lady, the chicest Brigitte Macron. Rather than going for another pair of best-seller sneakers (that one point make you puke, since everyone has them / wants them), the creative director of Louis Vuitton decided to do a collection dedicated to the Parisian bourgeois. By that, I mean classy skirtsuits, wearing one glove instead of two (how nonchalant…) and slightly historic looking silk blouses with voluminous sleeves. The mood was contemporary, as usual, but definitely less sci-fi. The ‘grounded’ feeling makes this collection commercial and a bit more approachable for a ready-to-wear client, that’s for sure. But other than the fancy Louvre venue and the lovely yellow fur jacket, will you remember anything else from this outing?

And yes, I’ve finally finished the fashion month coverage. Bye, Pareeh!

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Distant. Céline AW18

March 12, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

There was something of Phoebe Philo in Céline‘s autumn-winter 2018 collection. But still, that ‘something’ was very, very distant. She’s not there. There’s no soul in these clothes, even if they are worn by Phoebe’s favourite Binx Walton and Charlee Fraser. Those are just the ‘tricks’ Philo would probably have used if she was still around the studio. The heavy palette of navy, brown and black slightly suggest, that even the ‘inside’ designers of Céline feel the misery. Well, this doesn’t mean it’s a collection to ignore – you better snath one of those voluminous coats or masculine blazers before Hedi Slimane fully hits the house. And also, please give a chance to this random, yet adorable vegetable print dress.

By the way… I can’t agree with the thought Phoebe isn’t THERE. And you?