Orient. Christian Wijnants AW17

March 10, 2017March 10, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

In his autumn-winter 2017 fashion show, Christian Wijnants celebrated the idea of a world with no borders. Not being too referential about the orient, he and his in-house studio developed one-of-a-kind prints which had a lot to do with traditional paisley and Persian rugs patterns. A brilliant remix of oriental rhythms and booming beats were another clue of the designer’s inspiration. However, the styling of those flowing maxi-dresses and skirts was purely European. In bold colours of orange, green and purple, the Belgian designer focused on the technical side of his clothes: the pleats were made of polyamide to keep the silhouette, while the sweaters were of highest quality Alpaca and other yarns to satisfy a Wijnants client for years. At the Le Marais showroom, to see and touch the clothes, I’ve spotted that the python boots in yellow were the star among the buyers. No wonder why.

Christian Wijnants AW17

Backstage / showroom photos by Edward Kanarecki.

Ceremonial. Rick Owens AW17

March 10, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Rick Owens doesn’t care, if you’re laughing at his autumn-winter 2017 abstract headpieces or distorted proportions. Although his collection looked somewhat dystopian, the designer said it was rather ceremonial – and ceremonies are important, whether we’re speaking of rituals or deeply-rooted tradition. “People are coming together to collectively pursue common goals and ideas.” Today, a fashion show might be lightly called a ceremony, too, as people coalesce and celebrate their ambitions and aspirations. But not only the headgear made the viewer gasp with confusion during Rick’s show. The collection’s eerieness has no end, just like the amount of elongated sleeves and duvet covers. It’s about wrapping, draping, layering, things that Owens does religiously, following it every season.

Melancholy. Ann Demeulemeester AW17

March 9, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

“This is a very romantic girl who mixes all her lace and old garments,” said Sébastien Meunier backstage. “She wants to go and party, but in a different mood.” If melancholic attitude in fashion really exists, then Ann Demeulemeester autumn-winter 2017 collection precisely defines it. Feather inserts and intricately embellished, lace straps; long and flowing dresses styled with veils and leather pants. Very Ann. Meunier is getting better and better with every season, respecting Demeulemeester’s codes and injecting his own, dark aesthetic.

Optimism. Chloé AW17

March 8, 2017March 8, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

First of all, happy International Woman’s Day!

Second, let’s talk about Chloé, a brand that is often defined as a woman’s favourite. Marking her last show for the brand, Clare Waight Keller wanted to convey something she does best: carefree girlieness, but with no sugar added. Her goal was to provide a sense of escapism through fashion. Feminine dresses were balanced with XXL jumpers and slouchy sweatpants. Voluminous knits with psychedelic patterns had lace skirts (or mini-dresses) peeking out of beneath, highlighting a look Clare mastered since her arrival to the French maison in 2012. She pulled off Gaby Aghion’s, the brand’s founder, signature flou like no other, while her chic collections (although at some points monotonous) matched Chloé aesthetic perfectly. And that’s not only visible in editors’ reviews, but in the brand’s sales. Hopefully, Waight Keller finds her new path, whether in Paris or London (where her fam is) – her talent for versatile fashion could be a bright future for any obsoleting brand. Optimism, which is the theme of her autumn collection, is something Clare can easily relate to, whether in the past or future.

French Charm. Lemaire AW17

March 7, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

If you’re reading my blog from time to time, you might surely know how much I love Lemaire. So you can imagine how happy I was, when I visited the brand’s showroom on Le Marais for the first time, just a few days after Christophe Lemaire‘s and Sarah-Linh Tran‘s autumn-winter 2017 fashion show.

But before I will start drooling over the pieces I’ve seen in the showroom, let’s take a look at the collection. Inspired with 40s sport chic garments and Chinese uniforms, the duo had a balance of soft and austere on their mind. But the inspirations behind the collection served just as small concepts, ideas – Lemaire is never over-referential, but rather stays true to its minimal aesthetic. Corduroy tailoring, manish volumes, curved sleeves, distorted silhouttes and all of that kept mostly in flesh tones and classic black. Occasionaly, white see-through stockings peeked out; eclectic jewellery, hand-made in a Parisian atelier, brought charm; pony-hair heels defined understated cool. Lemaire and Tran always pay attention to the clothes’ quality, that’s why all the knits felt even fleecier than usual. I can’t forget to mention the denim pants. The cognac-brown tote. The shirt with XXL sleeves. I need. To. Stop.