Throwback Sunday – Balenciaga SS98′

November 15, 2015November 15, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

#ThrowbackSunday – spring / summer 1998

The debut collection of Nicolas Ghesquiere at Balenciaga. When the yet unknown designer came to Cristobal Balenciaga’s dusty and forgotten brand, it sold funeral clothing to Japanese licences. So, after the failure of the former creative director, Josephus Thimister, Nicolas had a field to show-off his talent. For the first collection in 1998, Ghesquiere decided to keep it mostly black, concentrating on the variety of silhouettes and sharp tailoring. Even though the collection felt very modest at the first sight, it was just a teaser of Nicolas’ prosperous and bold 15 years at Balenciaga.

Let this mourning parade of black-only looks be a quiet nod to Friday’s horryfying events that took place in Paris.

Jacquemus’ Dadaism

November 3, 2015November 10, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Simon Porte Jacquemus is one of the most daring designers in Paris. His collection trigger controversy, even though they reminisce childish, naive and even primitive way of being. The brand’s recent autumn-winter collection is deeply rooted in the period of dadaism – the shirts are printed with surreal, black hands, while voluminous trousers and skirts have those red, plastic circles through which stripes of textiles overlap. Take note of the abstract crop-tops – even though they look like pieces of a fancy, 60’s rug, they are made of wool patches, made fully in France (just like the rest of the pieces sold by Jacquemus). For the full effect of the very arty and avant-garde femme Simon creates this season, there are those paper masks – nobody is sure how practical are they, but surely they will update every possible look you think of this autumn.

The full AW15 look-book on jacquemus.com

Bye, Alber.

October 31, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

“At this time of my departure from Lanvin on the decision of the company’s majority shareholder,” he writes, “I wish to express my gratitude and warm thoughts to all those who have worked with me passionately on the revival of Lanvin over the last 14 years . . . together, we have met the creative challenge presented by Lanvin and have restored its radiance and have returned it to its rightful position among France’s absolute luxury houses.”

Alber Elbaz, one of the most loyal fashion designers, was officially fired from the house of Lanvin. After 14 years of beautiful, feminine collections, he was simply asked to leave, due to the fact he opposed to the unbelievable speed of fashion industry, which makes major designers feel frustration, and young designers struggle. Throughout his career, Alber presented and tried to prolifically approach the house of revolutionary Jeanne Lanvin – four collections a year for women, and two for men designed together with Lucas Ossendrijver. But still, the share-holders of the brand felt dissatisfied with Elbaz. And this causes a big problem in the fashion industry system – where is it heading to? To even bigger desire of consumerism? To more and more of beauty? Wait. Even the most couture-ish gown looses its beauty in this situation. The best example of that is a 500 euro jacket, that H&M will soon sell in collaboration with Balmain. Who cares that it’s beautifully embroidered, if it was produced in thousands of exemplars. This isn’t really on topic right now, but people who are planning to buy this jacket at H&M for such a price… well, then good-luck with completing your wardrobe with too expensive Made in China clothes.

But coming back to Alber Elbaz and his Lanvin history. When I have looked back at all of his collections this morning, I nearly cried. His signature, draped dresses. His opulent, yet simply cut tops. The ruffled details. The new definition of Parisian chic, that we all know understand thanks to Elbaz’ silhouettes and ways of dressing women. After those 14 years, it feels like Alber rebuilt the legacy of this French house, giving a lot of future references to the designer that will be soon announced. I just wonder who will be so desperate to work with such “demanding” and ignorant owners. Any guesses?

Parisian Update. Celine Resort’16

October 24, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

It’s a kind of fashion tradition, that we see Celine‘s pre-collection just few weeks before they hit the stores. When Phoebe Philo introduced this rule, the fashion system shifted. No wonder why – when we see the pre-collections six months before they are really available, there is a kind of deja vu feeling later on. There is a lack of excitement. When Philo drops her pre-collection, there is this surprise effect that certainly moves the brand’s customers when they walk into the stores. The resort 2016 is a true pleasure, both for the eye and the desire sense. The collection is a modern version of a French wardrobe – here, you will surely find a striped shirt, high-waisted pants and a raffia tote from the Basque summer adventures. Also, the wardrobe contains an essence of minimal, French glamour, which was strong in the 60’s & 70’s Paris – take the green, Pierre Cardin-like vest or Yves Saint Laurent safari trench-coat, revisited with some arty patterns. There is the feeling of a “woman who travels” in this collection, too – the Babouche slippers convey the oriental mood and the eclectic jewellery brought from Milan’s most edgy flea-markets and antiquaries. In brief, Phoebe wins my heart, as usual. Is this something new?

Raf Simons Departures Dior

October 23, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

When this information hit us all yesterday in the evening, there was a “what has just happened” moment. Raf Simons, both spontaneously and officially, said good-bye to Dior, the Parisian mega-house. Simons has revitalised and modernised the brand throughout the three-year tenure, after John Galliano was fired due to his public, anti-semitic affair. The reason of this sudden change is not that surprising, though – Raf Simons leads his own, eponymous label for men and he has always called his journey at Dior as a “temporary, but beautiful adventure, which really lets him discover the feminine part of fashion“. Observing Simons since his first, haute couture collection in 2012, it was clear from the very first moment that the brand will go through a major refreshment – minimal silhouettes, simple forms and mind-blowing, floral show settings accompanied Raf from the beginning. I can’t say that I am super sad about Raf leaving the brand – I must admit, that some of the collections felt monotonous and exhausting (just like his last, spring-summer 2016 show which was presented three weeks ago). However, up to now I am impressed with his Monaco-based resort 2016, historically influenced autumn-winter 2015 couture and abstract spring-summer 2013 – all of them seem to look far into the future of woman’s wardrobe. Certainly, the time spent by Raf Simons at Dior ultimately defined those three years of fashion – “conceptual design” and “futuristic femininity” fit this period well.

The thing is, the new designer of Dior will be named soon – and I hope, that LVMH won’t elect a designer, who will simply not match the codes of Dior. There are some rumours, that the luxury concern can give Alexander Wang a fair chance to take this place – but please, remind yourself the hard times that Wang spent at Balenciaga – his fashion bored everyone and depressed the owners of the brands due to low ready-to-wear incomes. So guys, leave Wang alone. Also, there are high chances for Phoebe Philo and Riccardo Tisci (her contract will soon end at Celine, while his at Givenchy). I see Philo at Dior, but she matches Celine so perfectly… and Tisci will make Dior a 500-euro-t-shirt brand. Personally, I would give a chance to somebody totally unknown – like Gucci did with Alessandro Michele. Sometimes, the most unexpected choice gives the best results. And coming back to Simons, I am happy for him and his decision – I wish him even more successes in expanding his own, eccentric brand!