Reviews

Body. Mugler SS20

| Design & Culture by Ed

While Casey Cadwallader‘s Mugler tailoring and corsetry is razor sharp, it’s also unbelievably body-loving and inclusive. For spring-summer 2020, the designer made a meaningful statement: his vision of the brand isn’t just for Instagram bodies, but for all. Yes, maybe Bella Hadid opened the show (she’s the only social-media-model I like), but the clothes were represented by women of different colors, sizes and gender identities. Kembra Pfahler took a runway turn, just like Debra Shaw, Karen Elson and Hanne Gaby Odiele. And the clothes? They were great, possibly the best we’ve seen from Cadwallader throughout his time at the label. Thierry Mugler’s vintage work from the ’80s and ’90s is the key inspiration for Casey, but he doesn’t let nostalgia ruin it. Exaggerated proportions and twisted glamour continue to be super seductive thanks to the usage of performance fabrics, while keeping the aesthetic clean and sharp lets Mugler look relevant and fresh. The more daring ones may choose a cropped jacket, net corset, and derrière-lifting stockings. The ones looking for something more day-ish, yet equally empowering, please take a look at the satin trench coat, an over-sized lilac blazer or the draped pencil skirts.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Still Searching. Lanvin SS20

| Design & Culture by Ed

It’s Bruno Sialelli‘s second season at Lanvin. And it’s really not the easiest maison to design for, especially after the so idiosyncratic Alber Elbaz era and the last couple of turbulent years related to the label’s ownership and direction. And add up to all this Jeanne Lanvin, the founder of the brand, who left behind a vast archive. Before Lanvin, Sialelli was one of the designers at Jonathan Anderson’s Loewe. His debut collection was mildly received (quite wrongly – the new arrivals coming to Lanvin’s e-shop are gorgeous, take a look!), because the designer still had the Loewe mentality, soft for artistically random, crafty details. This hasn’t changed for spring-summer 2020. Not only the weather wasn’t in favour of Sialelli’s line-up, but also the lack of edit. A bit of tailoring, a bit of flou. A print inspired by comic stories, multi-coloured checks, more comics. Some unflattering leather-works that were put over frocks and skirts. The mini-dresses in the finale were absolutely whatever. The strongest point of the collection was the pleated, fluoroscent blue gown that felt every, very Jeanne Lanvin. This is a good path to follow. I bet the details of this collection were great as well, but they are just too small to catch for a runway show. While an eclectic, “curated” look works at Loewe, Lanvin needs something different. Big hopes Bruno finds it sooner or later.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Predictable Chic. Saint Laurent SS20

| Design & Culture by Ed

Twinkling Tour Eiffel as the show’s backdrop? Incredible. Sebastian’s banging soundtrack? Wow. Naomi Campbell closing the show? Yay. And the clothes? Well, that’s the problem with Anthony Vaccarello‘s Saint Laurent from time to time. His spring-summer 2020 might have amazed with all the features, but in the end the clothes are the least exciting. Up to 100 looks, and most of them are either about short shorts and boots, or Yves’s iconic le smoking. Of course, the Loulou de la Falaise touches, nods to the ‘Russian’ collection from 1976 and forever chic YSL codes never get old, but Vaccarello’s result was, simply speaking, monotonous. And very predictable. But hey, that’s what Saint Laurent customers love and buy today. So why not give them what they want?

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Hi-Tech Minimalism. Coperni SS20

| Design & Culture by Ed

Instead of the standard runway show format, Coperni’s Sébastien Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant hosted a screening of a short film at the Apple store on the Champs Élysées in Paris. Meyer and Vaillant love doing things with a hi-tech twist, and their minimalist line-ups are as sleek as the recently launched iPhone 11. Their ‘airplane mode’ symbol bag is trending since its debut last season, so there’s no wonder why the couple decided on reproducing the familiar arches in new colours and other leather goods. There was a Bluetooth bow on the waistband of miniskirts. A customer can  scan a jacket’s QR code to find out the fabric’s origins. It’s interesting to see how Coperni plays with technology that surrounds us everyday, even if the result is sometimes too literal. The simplest, least smartphone-inspired pieces impress the most: take the black mini dress with a razor-sharp cut, for instance.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki, photos by Hugo Comte.

Marée Noire. Marine Serre SS20

| Design & Culture by Ed

Marine Serre‘s spring-summer 2020 collection, entitled Marée Noire (‘black water’, ‘dark tide’ in French), was unapologetically… Marine Serre. It’s really incredible that Serre, whose label is still relatively young and small as for Parisian standards, has such a distinct, signature look, not even mentioning her already cult moon crest print that is a street style classic. Under today’s grey, Parisian sky and in the misty rain, Marine sent down a fierce line-up of models at all ages, races and genders, some pregnant or with their dogs. This was another post-apocalyptic vision of chic according to Serre, which was much more defined and not so over-styled as last season: utilitarian jumpsuits with buckles, over-sized coats in PVC, hour-glass-shaped blazers and jackets, scuba-diving dresses with up-cycled silk scarf inserts (Marine Serre’s another ground-breaking signature, which is all about sustainability). Some of the models looked angry, while the collection’s main accessory – black rubber gloves – bring on some affiliations (serial killers, for instance?). But there was also light in Marine’s dystopian world (well, ours, if things keep on going the way they do now). A number of looks were all about white crotchet knits, there were even floral prints popping on maxi-skirts. Some girls wore towel turbans on their heads, while few skirts and dresses were actual towels as well, but couture-draped (this might be next season’s trend, just take a look at Prada) Maybe these women just took a bath in the previously mentioned, intoxicated, black water? The designer leaves you wondering, which is a rarity in today’s fashion. This was one of the strongest line-ups coming from Marine, consistent and intriguing. That’s a very good start of Paris fashion week.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.