It’s Marine Serre’s third runway season, but I really can’t imagine Paris fashion week without her now, when see her incredible, prophetic vision. She named her autumn-winter 2019 collection Radiation and, as the title might suggest, it wasn’t the most optimistic collection. “It’s after the apocalypse; a group of friends are underground—a community coming together,” Serre said backstage. “It’s a safe zone in which a new world is being created, a future world, and a new way to see fashion.” We’re talking of leather coats and dresses trailing scarves and stripes of fake fur, under which were worn head-to-toe bodysuits covered in signature moon crest print. It’s a sort of armour, maybe even a protection from today’s world that urgently need to take another turn – or else it will be too late. When it comes to sustainability, Serre is always here to take real action: majority of the collection is made from upcycled materials, just as in her previous seasons, and the clothes will be produced in the same way. A few years ago this would have been a no-no for any retailer to order a collection that might come in different colours, because it’s made from already-used textiles. But the growing list of shops that stock Serre’s brand is a sign that things change.
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.