Slowing Down. JW Anderson AW18

February 18, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

The autumn-winter 2018 collection from J.W. Anderson was the first time the eponymous label showed womenswear and menswear together. Jonathan Anderson just felt it’s the right time to decrease the number of collections per year and… slow down the pace. This certain ‘chill’ has its reflection in the collection’s mood, which is a compelling set of over-sized, laid-back knits, ruffled blouses in paisley and maxi-dresses. In other words, nothing ground-breaking is going on in here – but does it make this collection less intriguing? Absolutely no. There was something very sensual about this offering – the subtly sheer pants and trench coats worn on bare body are just that.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Not Just A Lady. Matty Bovan AW18

February 18, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

London fashion weeks couldn’t ask for a better start. With his first solo show (without the support of Fashion East), Matty Bovan has not only presented his best, most grandeur collection yet – it was also a beautiful tribute to his late grandmother. “So, it was about my grandma, this strong woman, and this north Yorkshire world of walks on the moors,” said the designer. But don’t expect anything overly preppy and neat from Bovan. Indeed, granny-ish tweed was present all over the collection, yet the way how the designer treated it is incredible. Slightly ragged and ‘pulled’, the tweed was used for nomadic coats, exaggerated in silhouette blazers and skirts that had layers of tulle underneath. As if we were the witness of Coco Chanel going mad with her signature fabric!

In fact, it felt that London’s hot blood reached the heights of Alexander McQueen or Vivienne Westwood’s rebellious (and simultaneously captivating) extravagance. Especially, with the last five looks, which featured one-of-a-kind ball-gowns and head-pieces made of balloons. Sounds naive, but the effect was more than jaw-dropping. Matty, thank you for making London London again.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Fashion. Marc Jacobs AW18

February 16, 2018February 16, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

Huge flourishes, bold gestures, broad strokes and silhouettes expressed in rich and gorgeous fabrics from double-faced cahmeres, meltons, and tweeds to failles, moirés, iridescent and flocked taffetas, radzimir (!), velvet and warp print statins. Marc Jacobs‘ autumn-winter 2018 wasn’t just a lesson on fabrics – it was a lesson of fashion. Inspired with the 80s mega-designers – Thierry Mugler, Claude Montana, Emanuel Ungaro, Christian Lacroix, Yves Saint Laurent – Marc had the very best to show in his spectacular collection. Polka-dots, big shoulders, XXL bows and ruffles – that’s a wardrobe of Mrs. Glam, who’s wearing a chic bolero hat. Jacobs, whose company is reportedly in a financial crisis, seems to show the middle finger towards commerce, for fashion’s sake. There’s no way you can’t respect that. And who knows – maybe that kind of extravagance will sell better, than any cheaper sister-line filled with sweatshirts? All the hope in the clients.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Fire, Pop-Corn, Hope. Calvin Klein AW18

February 15, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

Undoubtedly, Raf Simons‘ vision at Calvin Klein, which is so well executed (and financed – it’s really pleasing to see how the brand supports him), is something to write and write and write. But in short, that was a collection that accumulates Simons‘ image of contemporary USA. Adoration of the mass media (tons of pop-corn on the venue’s floor suggest the urge for spotlight, eternal love for Hollywood and, maybe, cult of celebrity); anxiety and need for protection (fireman jackets, thigh-length rubber boots; knitted balaclavas – ready and steady for an anti-Trump demonstration); indestructible hope for a better future (purely American-esque prairie skirts and dresses, of course exaggerated in volume and cut). Simons‘ Calvin Klein is not just clothes and fresh, Sterling Ruby filled branding – it’s food for thought, most of all. But also, it’s worth noting that it’s the designer’s third runway collection for Klein, and it seems that Raf’s ideas for the brand continue to accelerate at high-speed – whether we’re speaking of the show venues or the garments (for instance take that incredible fur coat that got deconstructed into a safety jacket).

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Daily Delights. Rosie Assoulin AW18

February 14, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

While for the past seasons, Rosie Assoulin earned a reputation of New York’s best place to shop for unpretentious eveningwear, the designer focused a bit more on daywear this time. And especially, outerwear, which is just a delight.The marble print – Rosie’s current obsession fuelled by a newly found book on marbling techniques – looked equally great on the reversible jackets, as on the pants in scarf-like silk. Tailoring is also a brand new area for Assoulin, but she manages to pull it off in a distinctly bold way (see the blue suit!). Flares are back, stronger than ever. But this wouldn’t be a Rosie Assoulin collection, if there were no dresses. From more day-to-day options to red-carpet spotlight stealers (that sculptural, micro-pleated gown), it’s impossible not to be mesmerised. Or even, enchanted!