London fashion weeks couldn’t ask for a better start. With his first solo show (without the support of Fashion East), Matty Bovan has not only presented his best, most grandeur collection yet – it was also a beautiful tribute to his late grandmother. “So, it was about my grandma, this strong woman, and this north Yorkshire world of walks on the moors,” said the designer. But don’t expect anything overly preppy and neat from Bovan. Indeed, granny-ish tweed was present all over the collection, yet the way how the designer treated it is incredible. Slightly ragged and ‘pulled’, the tweed was used for nomadic coats, exaggerated in silhouette blazers and skirts that had layers of tulle underneath. As if we were the witness of Coco Chanel going mad with her signature fabric!

In fact, it felt that London’s hot blood reached the heights of Alexander McQueen or Vivienne Westwood’s rebellious (and simultaneously captivating) extravagance. Especially, with the last five looks, which featured one-of-a-kind ball-gowns and head-pieces made of balloons. Sounds naive, but the effect was more than jaw-dropping. Matty, thank you for making London London again.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.