Danish Girl. Cecilie Bahnsen AW18

February 4, 2018February 4, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

LVMH Prize finalist Cecilie Bahnsen draws on the minimalist aesthetic of her Danish heritage for her eponymous, Copenhagen-based label. The Royal College of Art graduate’s selection of ethereal gowns, elegant dresses and sophisticated separates are a showcase of girlie silhouettes with a sculptural edge. Each piece is handmade with phenomenally soft, fluffy fabrics and finished with couture-like details. For autumn-winter 2018, especially look out for tulle dresses in pastel pink and those cute, quilted skirts. Copenhagen fashion week is a great source of fresh designers with Scandinavian sensibility, and this time around, it’s Cecilie that caught everyone’s eye. Also, feel free to fall in love with this velvet goodie and one of these collars coming from Bahnsen.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Femininities. Rodarte AW18

February 3, 2018February 3, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

When actors, musicians and celebrities appear in fashion, the result often results in lots of buzz and fuss. But for Kate and Laura Mulleavy, the autumn-winter 2018 Rodarte look-book is about “portraits of friends”. By “friends”, they mean their long-time muse and collaborator, Kirsten Dunst (she plays the main role in the sister’s debutant film, Woodshock – worth watching) who poses in a red, floral gown, pregnant. She looks so blossoming. But it’s not only Dunst! There’s Grimes, whose ethereal, out-of-this-world music matches Rodarte vibes and that couture-ish Edwardiana frock; Chloe and Halle, the R&B duo, who twirl cherry-blossom umbrellas; Kim Gordon in a sharp leopard print-ensemble; Rowan Blanchard, actress/activist in a cute varsity jacket; Gia Coppola wearing a chic, faux-fur look; Miranda July, wearing a silk chiffon dotted dress; and others. Mulleavy sisters pursuit the idea of womanhood in their work for years, and this season they embrace that with double power. Choosing those women (who inspire them and represent different femininities) to model their clothes is the best possible choice the designers could make. I’m really, really in love.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Detox. Acne Studios AW18

January 27, 2018January 27, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

“They come back looking amazing, great skin, relaxed”, is how Jonny Johansson sees his friends and colleagues that have chosen to move away from urban environments to live in the countryside. Airy, light and cozy are the words to describe Acne Studios‘ latest collection – one of the best in a while. What the Scandinavian label has in offer for autumn-winter 2018? Well, everything is lovely, that’s first. Whether we’re speaking of the loosely fit, buttoned maxi-dresses in toned florals or plaid blanket coats, it’s a wardrobe that’s ready to please you in autumn, both in the city or in the forest (mushroom-picking!). Also, I can’t get enough of the colour palette, which reminds me of an idyll, late September rural landscape. You might ask yourself a question, why is the collection presented as early as Vetements or Proenza Schouler? Johansson’s decision for Acne Studios follows a certain ‘detox’ philosophy. Showing earlier, close in time to the menswear presentation, lets Johansson focus creatively on a specific concept and, to some extent, escape the regular Paris fashion week rush for limelight. And now, off to the country.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Majestic. Valentino Haute Couture SS18

January 26, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

Dear Pierpaolo Piccioli, without any doubts, I’m calling your latest haute couture collection for Valentino the best of the season. It’s so captivating, delightful, grandiose, majestic! So many big words are here to describe every single piece of the show, from the boldly-coloured feather jellyfish headwear by the miliner Philip Treacy to the voluminous, ball gowns in lady-like tulle and pure silk. Pierpaolo reaches the heights of Valentino Garavani, the master, with this incredible collection. It’s a comeback to couture that really looks like couture, updated with very deluxe tank-tops, flares fit for dames and clean-cut outerwear (which makes an entrance – just see that statuesque, yellow coat!). Piccioli combines jewel-toned colours with pastels, and at some points goes for elegant black and white. But what I love the most about this impressive outing is its easiness. It’s fun, its rich, it’s wearable, yet not ordinary. Since Maria Grazia Chiuri’s departure to Dior (duh…), I haven’t seen anything particularly interesting about Piccioli’s solo direction. But now, he seems to blossom, in a good, fashion dream way. Bravo!

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Hi-Tech Magic. Maison Margiela Haute Couture SS18

January 25, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

“When I returned to designing, I was taken aback by how everyone was seeing shows through their phones,” John Galliano confessed to the press after the spring-summer 2018 couture show for Maison Margiela. If you can’t beat ’em, join ’em? Well, you can say that Galliano found a compromise for his initial frustration with the Insta-phenomen. A very, very innovative one. The audience members were asked to turn their cameras to flash throughout the show, which resulted in a totally unexpected experience. Everyone captured their own images of fabrics of the high-tech garments as the models walked down the runway. “It’s quite scientific,” Galliano continued. “We recorded every moment of what we were making, then looked at the photographs and altered what we were doing according to the photos.” The reaction of polyurethane to camera flash works magic on holographic material that was layered over polka dots and artisanal chinoiserie jacquards. In other words, what you see IRL, looks (and shines) differently, when you compare it to digital shot of the same piece. Fashion, for goodness sake, is a dream! And Galliano knows that. If your pocket isn’t filled with a haute couture budget, it’s just the matter of time when the hi-tech concept hits Maison Margiela’s regular ready-to-wear.