Harmony. Attico SS18

September 21, 2017September 21, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Gilda Ambrosio and Giorgia Tordini‘s brand, Attico, is like an ever-changing cabinet des curiosités that evolves with the designer’s ideas and sense of style. With a great commercial success under their belt (Attico tops the best-seller list everywhere, from Net-A-Porter to Matches), the women behind Milan’s beloved label keep it smartly small-production and very refined. Looking at Attico’s latest offering for spring-summer 2018, it’s clear what’s Gilda’s and what’s Giorgia’s. The first, master of layering and modern eclecticism, definitely put her stamp on the collection with her beloved use of sharp prints, bold colours and season’s new addition – the feathers. The second’s chic minimalist hand is felt in the feminine silhouettes of dresses and antique-looking embroideries. But what’s unique about Attico is the harmony kept between those two business partners / private-life friends. A truly well-curated selection of frocks and pajama suits await Attico’s devotees next season.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki (featuring Allen Jones’ artwork).

On Monotony. Gucci SS18

September 21, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Alessandro Michele‘s phenomena at Gucci needs no introduction. I think his striking, even terrific style, has reached its limit a long time ago, and keeps on adding up with no end in sight. According to the brand’s creative director, ‘creation’ in itself is a poetic act, and I have nothing against that. But I found his spring-summer 2018 creation not poetic, but, hmm… overcrowded. Don’t get me wrong, Alessandro wouldn’t be him if he did something not ornamental, and I absolutely get that – it’s his aesthetic. But if that collection was a “map of signs to learn to live the world poetically, going beyond its contingency and standardizing monotony”, don’t be surprised if you lose your way with it. I find Ann Demeulemeester poetic. Yohji Yamamoto and Comme Des Garçons are insanely poetic. But Michele’s extremely lush clash of young Elton John’s tour costumes and intergalactic UFO-femme gowns feels rather operatic and dramatic, than a fashion poetry. It’s a hard study of costume with a capital C, not self-expression liberation. Shortly, if you thought that the last Gucci show was too much, you were wrong. This one is too too much. But no fears, the next season will be even more more.

P.s. I think that monotony is lethal. But isn’t Gucci already too predicatable? It’s a kitsch monotony, in fact.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Domesticated Fetishes. Christopher Kane SS18

September 20, 2017September 20, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Christopher Kane‘s spring-summer 2018 collection was an exercise in what’s domesticated, what’s fetishistic. The designer, who never disapoints in creating some of the most unorthodox fashion statements, had a story on his mind. A story of a pristine lady, very proper and neat, a 100% perfectionist, who has an emotional breakdown. Her life is domesticated, but she feels a need for sexual freedom – after all, she’s not that innocent. From elegant, 40s housecoats to desultory dusters, the inspirations behind Kane’s new collection span from absolutely refined couture-detailing to the most common household objects. The collection was not only a daring stance on sexuality found in day-to-day fetishes, but also a nod to British class boundaries that have affected women for centuries. It’s as if a housewive went bad, very bad, and fell an affection for flirty satin and lace lingerie. And she has certainly put her hands on John Kacere‘s coffee-book, that probably counted as the dirtiest gift given from her husband’s boss. The artist, whose artworks were developed as prints for Christopher’s dresses and t-shirts, almost solely devoted himself to idealized depictions of the female body (sometimes in lingerie, sometimes not). That’s a naughty tale, indeed.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Rough and Sweet. Marques Almeida SS18

September 20, 2017September 20, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Roughness and sweetness collide in today’s femininity, and that was quite clearly shown in Marques Almeida spring-summer 2018 collection. The designers were intrigued in womanhood and its many faces, that’s why their show embraced many personalities. Dolly Parton’s song were on the soundtrack, so no wonder why Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida focused on the all-American classic: denim. From re-invented Texan Tuxedos to torn-up trousers, there were many options to choose from. Dolly Parton is woman to love and respect for many reasons. So did the designers think of Joan of Arc. The metallic gilets (worn over pink smocks) and armour-like total-looks were the main, smartly played nods to her powerful appearance that definitely fell into the first camp – roughness. But if you really think of a 2017 woman, the extra-large shoulder bags are here to support on daily-basis. Nicely covered in floral jacquard, they are both practical and pretty.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Chavs and Checks. Burberry AW17

September 19, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

There’s a new, very common tendency in fashion for speeding up the sales. While in the past, that was done by launching a new perfume, today, it’s making the clothes feel Vetements (with some smaller or bigger alternations). In case of Burberry, Christopher Bailey‘s strategy was to pin-up that popularly over-sized, ‘I don’t care how I look’ style to the brand’s biggest heritage – the Burberry check – that lately wasn’t a top-seller. The bootleg power has its impact, after all, and as the current consumer fancies looking cheap, that’s a very, very good shot.

Following the successful recipe of many brands, Bailey invited the ‘cool pack’ to collaborate in the new season. So we’ve got Gosha Rubchinskiy, who has already presented a glimpse of the Burberry collab in his recent menswear collection that took place last June in Saint Petersburg. The Russian photographer, known for capturing the post-Soviet skate youth and rave scene, also contributed to Burberry’s photography exhibition, ‘Here We Are‘, curated by Alasdair McLellan. But back to the clothes: not that the overall collection was bad. Quite opposite – it was one of the best Burberry collections in a while. Lots of heavy knitwear worn over sheer dresses (lovely, rustical mood of Scottish highlands); PVC jackets in pastel pink; and of course, checks covering everything from coats to the ‘chav’ inspired caps. The effect? Sure, I took out my well-forgotten, beige scarf for a walk. Looked at it with a ‘fresh’ eye. But if taking a closer look at that Gosha-coolness of this collection, Burberry’s new-season directions says as follows: ‘desperate’.